An Amazon Andes tour

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A x\ A M A Z O N ANiDKS rOlTR

AN A M A Z O N ANDES TOUR BY MARGARET BOOTH WITH

AN I N T R O D U C T I O N

GEORGE

M.

BY

BOOTH

P U B L I S H E D F O R T H E A U T H O R S BY

E D W A R D ARNOLD, LONDON FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION

MC.MX

CONTENTS INTRODUCTION (G. M. B.)

1

DIARY (M. B.)

21

MAP S H O W I N G AUTHORS' PARA TO LIMA

ROUTE

MAP S H O W I N G A U T H O R S ' IQLTTOS TO LIMA

ROUTE

MAP S H O W I N G A U T H O R S ' J E S S U P I TO OROYA

ROUTE

FROM 'fa face.

FROM 49

FROM

APPENDIX—CAMP FOOD AND E Q U I P M E N T

75

11:»

This small volume, put together for the amusement of ourselves and our travelling companions, and possessing no merit but that of telling accurately the story of what proved to be a very simple journey, is printed privately for those friends and relations who care to get a glimpse of what must always remain a wonderful episode in our lives.

MARGARET

S,- GEORGE BOOTH

With the Author's Compliments.

twin

Tab

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INTRODUCTION B Y G E O R G E M. B O O T H I N t h e spring of 1908 it Avas my pleasant fortune to u n d e r t a k e a journey from London to Lima, via t h e Amazon RiAer. I h a d three objects in view. The first Avas to visit P a r a and Manaos—Amazon towns served by t h e vessels of t h e Booth Steamship Company, Limited—(Manaos being 900 miles u p t h e Amazon River near t h e junction with t h e Negro) a n d t o inspect in Manaos a harbour enterprise m a n a g e d in London. The second was t o reach Iquitos, some 1300 miles beyond Manaos ; Iquitos is t h e capital of Loreto, a t r a n s a n d i n e province of Peru, and served by direct steamers sailing m o n t h l y from Liverpool under t h e managem e n t of t h e Booth Steamship Company. H e r e Messrs. Alfred Booth a n d Co. haAre built a h a r b o u r under t h e t e r m s of a Peruvian concession. My t h i r d object Avas t o p e n e t r a t e to the limit of water navigation and cross t h e Andes to reach Lima. I Avished to s t u d y certain possibilities of navigation a n d t h e problem of connecting Peru on t h e Pacific with Peru on t h e Amazon, and t o discuss with t h e G o v e r n m e n t of Lima various forms of developm e n t t h a t m i g h t affect t h e business enterprises in Avhich I Avas interested. As far as Iquitos all Avas plain sailing, b u t inA

2

AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR

formation upon the next 1500 miles of journey was scanty and not encouraging. I proposed to follow the Rivers Ucayali, Pachitea and Pichis for about a thousand miles and then take to the Avoods and folloAv a track known as the " Pichis Highway," about 150 miles long and bringing one to the large Aillage of La Merced, Avithin a few days* ride of Oroya, the limit of the Lima-Oroya raihvay. Such a journey once successfully accomplished Avould, I felt, find me in Lima Avell equipped to deal more or less efficiently Avith the business points I had in ATieAAr; but tempting as it Avas both as an adventure and a commercial opportunity, I should never have had the courage to undertake it alone. My Avife intrepidly determined to come, and we AArere accompanied by Doctor Claude Horton and joined at Iquitos by Mr. W Harold Tregoning, Avho AAas the engineer-in-charge of the harbour construction at Iquitos. Our itinerary Avas as folloAvs : ITINERARY OF RIYER JOURNEY Feb. ,. ,, ,, March „

14 17 19 29 3 7 16 v-

dep. arr. dep. arr. dep. arr. dep.

London. Lisbon. Lisbon. Para. Para. Manaos. .Manaos.

R.M.S. Lanfranc. ton.-.

6640

900 t.,_,

_

ISS. Perseveranca, river

OOAA

2o arr. Iquitos. , \ ' , . steamer, 600 tons. 01 T ,, 31 dep. Iquitos. J April 127 arr. Esperanga. Bocca Pachitea. J"1 7 Bccca Pachitea. J-Launeh Eliza. 50 tons. 13 dep. Esperanca. In canecs. 13 air. Puerto Bermudez. 15 dep. Puerto Bermudez. 15 arr. Puerto Jessupi.

2200

„

T

-,

Miles from Para.

2950 3150 3175 3200

INTRODUCTION

3

T h u s out of t h e 45 days betAveen P a r a and Jessupi, 28 were spent in travelling, or an average of 115 miles a d a y against a steady current. After Iquitos Ave always anchored at night. We also h a d several strandings, a n d some repairs to our propeller blades h a d to be undertaken, so t h a t our speed seemed r e m a r k a b l y good. My Avife k e p t a diary from Manaos to Lima a n d I m a d e some notes. The folloAving short introduction based thereon is intended to give some general idea of t h e Amazon. The Amazon is indeed a Avonderful river. I t s proportions, as far as Avater is concerned, are colossal a n d entirely Avithout rival. Imagine a r river so deep t h a t OA er 900 miles from its m o u t h fifty fathoms can be plumbed for more t h a n a mile in width. Actually t h e night before Ave reached Manaos a large steamer sank, a n d Ave next morning, drawing '22 ft., passed unwittingly over i t ! B u t right a t t h e m o u t h t h e Amazon makes herself evident'—the great blue sea with all its vast weight of tide is tossed right back on t o itself, a n d t h o u g h t h e tide ebbs and flows for m a n v a mile u p t h e Amazon, for more t h a n fifty miles t h e sea is discoloured brown by t h e discharged sediment t h a t sweeps on Avith tireless Aigour in t h e heavily laden water of the river. " T h i r t y per cent, m u d in t h e Acre, sir," said Captain W a t r i n , of t h e Perseveranca, to me one day. B u t I m u s t t r y t o describe t h e network of rivers t h a t one by one become engulfed in t h e main AOAV

4

AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR

of t h e Amazon valley From north and south they floAv as Avell as from t h e great r a n g e of t h e Andes in t h e Avest. Their n a m e is legion, t h e i r limit a n d source almost i n v a r i a b l y unknoAvn. Greatest a m o n g t h e m is t h e R i o N e g r o — b r a n c h i n g n o r t h a t Manaos. T h e Orinoco a n d t h e Negro rise in a lake c o m m o n t o b o t h , a n d t h e Avhole of this great watercourse has been explored. The Negro, as m i g h t be expected, is black ; t h a t is, when t h e Negro meets t h e A m a z o n t h e Avaters look black a n d white b y contrast. T h e colour is t h a t of a Scotch or Irish p e a t b u r n , a n d is due to a mass of t a n n a t e of iron t h a t exists along its Avhole course. Such a colour in t h e sun !—churned up by t h e swiftly t u r n i n g propeller blades of the ri\-er launch in which our expeditions Avere made, b u r n i s h e d copper or b r o n z e — a n d not black at all. An e x t r a o r d i n a r v contrast to t h e Amazon, the Negro carries no sediment ; a tumbler of the Amazon clears quickly to water almost Avhite, h a v i n g a sticky deposit at t h e b o t t o m of the glass: b u t t h e Negro is clear as crystal, and has a most beneficent effect on all submerged iron, Avhich neA'er rusts, b u t gains a fine coat of some protective n a t u r e — a cause of much economy to those Avho own floating property at Manaos. P e r h a p s the Madeira is the most i m p o r t a n t branch river from a commercial point of A'ieAV. It joins the Amazon from the south, just beloAV Manaos. and close to a little town called Serpa or Itacoatiara. The Madeira is not navigable for more t h a n about 400 miles, where t h e Falls a n d R a p i d s of San Antonio p u t an end to naAigation

INTRODUCTION

5

by steam. F r o m this point, a 250-mile railway is to be built t o a point above t h e falls ; a most i m p o r t a n t Avork. as t h e Madeira flows from t h e richest of all t h e rubber districts in South America. At its sources t h e land is Bolivian and P e r m i a n as Avell as Brazilian, so chronic friction a t San Antonio m a y be expected. I t is not easy to continue my description Avithout a m a p , b u t t h e most striking peculiarity of t h e Amazon RiA*er a n d its ramifications is this. I Avill t r y to make it clear. I a m going to describe a triangle m a d e by a side running east t o Avest— from Serpa, mentioned aboA'e, to Iquitos in Peru— a side 1500 miles in length. Thence due south by t h e Ucayali for a b o u t 1500 miles, and thence back t o Serpa—the hypotenuse of m y right-angled triangle. NOAV this t h i r d side is t h e course of t h e Madeira RiAer (and railway) a n d confluents, and a t t h e south corner a carry of a mile or two joins up t h e system. Engineers haAe dreamed of a short canal, a n d of t h e creation of a great route right round my triangle. This is of importance because r u b b e r gathered in t h e southern corner has an alternatiA^e route by river t o t h e n o r t h or t o t h e east, a n d those Avho manage t h e carrying t r a d e of this A'ast Avatershed need to gauge in Avhat Avay t h e produce of t h e southern corner can be freighted most economically t o t h e consuming a n d distributing centres of t h e Avorld. Still more i m p o r t a n t is t h e international aspect. Iquitos, t h e western limit of t h e n o r t h e r n side of my triangle, is t h e capital of t h e province of Loreto, t h e increasingly prosperous t r a n s a n d i n e territory

0

AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR

of Peru ; a n d Peru, b y every m e a n s in her poAver, is endeavouring t o h a \ e t h e up-river p r o d u c e collected here for fiscalisation. Now within my big triangle are several similar Avater systems all producing t h e same south-Avest corner Avhere produce can go t w o Avays, until finally you reach t h e J a v a r y , t h e river frontier of P e r u a n d B r a z i l ; this m e r leaves t h e Amazon at T a b a t i n g a , and is parallel, more or less, t o t h e Madeira, t h e Purus, a n d m a n y others. R u b b e r - g a t h e r e r s — • ' seringeiras : ' —ascend this river, g a t h e r rubber from either bank w i t h o u t interference, a n d coming doAvn Avith it to T a b a t i n g a can either r u n a feAv miles u p to Iquitos a n d ship their collection of produce from Peru, or can come 900 miles doAvn ri\"er and ship from Manaos as Brazilian produce. At present Peru has a loAver e x p o r t d u t y on rubber, so t h a t an enormous a m o u n t of rubber groAvn and gathered in Brazil is shipped a n d fiscalised at Iquitos. Peru, furthermore, has loAver import duties, so t h a t the gatherers can b u y supplies for their expeditions more cheaply in Iquitos t h a n in Manaos. Peru a n d Brazil in a feAv years' time will be competing in every conceiAable way for this export and i m p o r t t r a d e , a n d t h e country t h a t enforces a Avise tariff Avith energetic development of up-river facilities—canals, light railways, &c.—Avill be master of a great source of reA'enue. B u t t o m y picture of the river I m u s t t u r n again. I t is possible to ascend the main Amazon in ocean steamers as far as Iquitos—2200 miles from t h e m o u t h ; and for this whole length t h e Avild virgin forest extends on either bank Avith a mono-

INTRODUCTION

7

tony that would be intolerable to many, and yet Avith a variety of groAvth that gives a good opportunity to the student of trees and timber, and Avith a surprising and sudden gift of colour in skv and Avater that burns itself indeliblv into the mind.

OFFICE AXD MANAGER S HOUSE OF MAXAOS HARBOUR, LTD.

At dusk psrhaps the river Avidens into a sea, and the full horizon is left resting on its Avaters as in mid-ocean, Avhile the great banks of clouds, t h a t for an hour or so have been threatening rain, groAv ruddy Avith the gloAV of the departed sun. Yes, threatened rain indeed ; frequently as fulfilled a menace as you can dream of. For hours the Avater is literally churned into foam by the storm. So thick and so opaque is this rain that, our captain says he has often lost sight of the bank—not more than thirty yards aAvay !

«

AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR

And all day and all night great trees a n d islands of grass float down, a n d doAvn, a n d d o w n . A v e r y innocent-looking branch m a y be all t h a t is visible of some huge t r u n k a h u n d r e d feet long ; a great strain on the pilots, who ring t h e engines " stop " or " full speed a s t e r n , " as t h e case m a y be, to

PRIVATE ENTRANCE TO THE MANAO> HARBOUR HOUSE

avoid or lessen t h e impact with the suspected or evident monster. At night, lying aAvake in one's h a m m o c k , it seems t h a t t h e engine-room bell goes every few m i n u t e s ; a n d often when standing forward t h e bell has rung m a i n ' seconds before my u n t r a i n e d eye has picked out the coming danger. Great evesight these pilots have. Nothing was visible t h e other night to a n y of our party, and vet land, water, islands, corners, logs. &c. &c., all seemed illuminated to the little felloAv Avho is our senior pilot. The ship's captain sees Avell too,

INTRODUCTION

9

and is excellent in t h e emergencies Avhich frequently arise. One favourite trouble is to anchor on to a large sunken tree. To saA'c t h e anchor requires patience a n d ingenuity The most beautiful tree is t h e so-called " cotton "

A CLEARING ON THE AMAZON, SHOWING FINE " COTTON

TREES

tree, which grows t o a splendid height, as straight as a mast, Avith a fine umbrella-like foliage, branching at t h e t o p . The gracefulness of these trees is usually hidden by t h e masses of other growth, b u t where a clearing has been m a d e by an enterprising settler Avith taste, a few specimen trees left for shade a n d effect give t h e true conception ol t h e forest giants here, a n d of their shape and peculiarity. The most valuable Avood—of course t h e

10

AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR

rubber-tree is t h e most valuable A m a z o n p r o d u c t —is a h a r d smooth black tree ; it h a s no b a r k , and resembles unpolished ebony more t h a n a n y other wood. The tree grows tall, b u t never obtains t o a girth of more t h a n three feet, a n d often t h e tallest trees are mere spindles. " A verv fine

INDIAN* HUT AND J E T T Y ON PILES IN THE ' ' NARROWS

Avood for inlaying B u t t o m a r k e t this Avood costs more t h a n t h e m e r c h a n t in Manaos or P a r a will p a y for it at present, so t h e hard Avoods of the A m a z o n Valley are neglected, and giVe a verv individual look to t h e river banks t h a t I haAre neA'er seen elsewhere. In some p a r t s t h e Indian h u t s s t a n d on piles, a n d t h e Avash of our steamer in t h e narroAV part above Para seemed to SAvamp t h e m mercilessly. To each little pile j e t t y Avere a t t a c h e d a canoe or two. a n d t h e little black children are t a u g h t to

INTRODUCTION

11

run to their boats t h e m o m e n t t h e t h r o b of t h e steamer is heard, by d a y or by night, and paddle out into t h e stream, Avhere t h e light craft easily float t o t h e switchback-washing Avater, Avhereas Avhen anchored t h e y m u s t inevitably fill and sink at their moorings. The '* Narrows '" a t their narroAvest measure

THE

NARROWS

just OA'er a h u n d r e d yards Avide, a n d t h e curves are a m a z i n g . W e steamed along in a 6400-ton steamer, t h e Lanjranc (the flagship of t h e B.SS. Co.), frequently missing one b a n k or t h e other Avith proAV or stern by a feAv feet, for t h e Avater is deep right into t h e trees. Small riA'er boats r u n into t h e Avoods Avhen t h e y hear t h e Avhistle of t h e ocean liner. Where t h e river is wider settlers n a t u r a l l y t r y to choose high ground three to t w e n t y feet above t h e river a n d m a k e as large a clearing as possible, in order t o groAv b a n a n a s , mandioca, cacao, &c.

12

AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR

All or nearly all depend for luxuries on t h e r u b b e r to be found in t h e neighbourhood. T h e big felloAVs have cattle and pigs. All h a v e foAvls. a n d fish is a b u n d a n t , t h o u g h not easily c a u g h t . There is verv little traffic on t h e Amazon, and m a n y hours pass Avithout t h e sight of steamer or launch. Canoes are p r e t t y frequently seen and

THE

" NARROWS

now and t h e n a large raft floats lazily by. with a house on it a n d some people, often Avith cattle and chickens, a n d a great supply of green grass attached. Families travel m a n y hundreds of miles in this A\ay to m a r k e t their produce of rubber and buy fresh supplies " in t o w n . " returning by launch. P r o b a b l v such a t r i p is made once a Aear, the rest of t h e time produce and supplies come and go by launches, a n d t h e whole family works hard on the place. B u t Avhen the season is oA'er a n d t h e last of t h e crop gathered, a change of air is Avelcomed. a n d a couple of months pass b y with much a m u s e m e n t . We got a nice p h o t o of one of

INTRODUCTION

13

these rafts, which I hope Avill develop successfully. The Amazon water did not taste very nice t o me ; it is very m u d d y , b u t nothing else is d r u n k by t h e Indians. AVIIO scoop it u p in a cup, and t a k e

THE " LANFRANC " IN THE " NARROWS

as much as they Avant. There is no evidence of trying t o get Avater from t h e streaming current : children almost lap it u p from t h e pools or backing eddies, Avhere there m u s t be considerable stagnation. At all big stations a great pile of cut Avood lines t h e front, for use instead of coal Avhen the launches have b u r n e d u p their stock. I t is Avell cut in even lengths a n d split into p r e t t y even thicknesses, and piled neatly in fifties. This m u s t represent

14 AN AMAZON ANDES TOUR half the work of the station. The splitting is done with big American axes. As far as our experience Avent. the mosquito

BOAT DRILL OX R.M.S. " LANFRANC "

grew worse and worse as Ave travelled inland. In Para they bite, and can give malaria or yelloAv feA'er. In Manaos they worry you and are also risky, In Iquitos at times it is impossible to sit still or pack or wash, or do anything but sit closely protected by a net with a killing-bottle in hand. Up the Ucayali a boiler-piercing brand comes on to the scene, with a proboscis an eighth of an inch

INTRODUCTION

15

long, biting t h r o u g h coats and trousers m a d e of strong khaki, a n d settling t h r o u g h flannel or duck as t h o u g h it Avere tissue-paper. Luckily all chance of yelloAv feArer is over b y this time, although b a d malaria mosquitoes exist evervAvherc. On t h e Pachitea t h e mosquitoes are large, b u t not very

BOAT DRILL ON R.M.S.

LANFRANC

numerous, a n d a beast t h a t on t h e Amazon only troubled us on occasional visits to I n d i a n settlem e n t s — t h e pium—is b o t h numerous and hungry. They h u r t less t h a n mosquitoes, b u t AVOITV dreadfully, a n d leave a little round red m a r k Avhere they have bitten, which t u r n s black in a few days. The spot ne\-er itches as badly as a mosquito bite. The only toAvns of importance on t h e main Amazon in Brazil are P a r a at its m o u t h , and Manaos, 900 mile^ u p (and just off t h e main river on t h e Negro). P a r a has a difficult port—fast

l(j

AN AMAZON-ANDES

TOUR

c u r r e n t s a n d silting b o t t o m . Manaos could harbour t h e fleets of t h e w o r l d - m i l e s a n d miles of deep clear water, scarcely o n e - q u a r t e r of a knot of current, a n d no silt of any k i n d . I n P a r a there are said to be 180,000 people ; m Manaos about 80,000. Manaos looks imposing because boats come right u p to t h e splendid h a r b o u r Avorks and passengers can walk ashore along floating roadways as in Liverpool at t h e Prince's landing-stage; a n d in m a n y ways t h e city is finer than P a r a : more spacious a n d b e t t e r laid out. The big boats a t P a r a h a v e t o anchor several miles beloAv the t o w n a n d all freight a n d passengers go up relaunch, t u g a n d lighter, &c. The stages for landing are clumsy a n d i n a d e q u a t e , and the Avhole frontage of P a r a seems verv sordid compared with Manaos. All this m a y be changed if the P a r a Harbour C o m p a n y does its Avork Avell. but their task is r a t h e r arduous ; so far much moneA' has been spent, a n d there is nothing to show except plant a n d machinery for doing Avork : no actual harbour work begun. P a r a is the capital of the State of Para ; Manaos of t h e S t a t e of Amazonas : this latter is a huge territory of rich rubber lands. Both States are keenly a t t e m p t i n g to develop their resources by means of improved riA'er service to distant places, and by railway Avhere rapids and falls p u t an end to travel by launch or canoe. In 1!»07 the export of rubber from t h e Brazilian Amazon was 32,000 tons, valued a t £16,000,000, and about half comes from each p o r t — P a r a and Manaos. The only other product of A^alue is the

INTRODUCTION

17

Brazil nut, of which a b o u t 8000 tons, valued a t £80,000, are shipped annually. As t h e river produces nothing else b u t a little h a r d Avood for floors, &c., and some clay for bricks, t h e ships t h a t e a r n ' t h e rubber t o E u r o p e a n d America return heavily laden Avith CAerything from paA'ing-stones to pianos,

SAILORS CUTTING GRASS FOR CATTLE, STANDING IN PUSHED INTO THE RIVER'S

CANOES

EDGE

and from kerosene, flour, cement, resin, lumber, & c , t o pins, needles, jeAvellery a n d hair-oil—and of this latter a huge q u a n t i t y , for the coiffure is much attended to. Coffee comes from southern States of Brazil, and also tobacco. Cattle a n d fodder come from t h e Argentine, a n d some cattle from the States. B a n a n a s , plantains, m a n d i o c a and fish are Amazon food staples. To finish t h e s u m m a r y of t h e Amazon capitals, B

18

AN AMAZON-ANDES

TOUR

I m u s t describe Iquitos, t h e capital of Loreto, P e r u . I t has 20,000 i n h a b i t a n t s , t h r e e - q u a r t e r s I n d i a n , a n d t h e rest E u r o p e a n a n d PeruvianSpanish. L a s t year it e x p o r t e d 2000 t o n s of rubber, worth a b o u t £1,000,000. H e r e also there is a nice little h a r b o u r c o m p a n y a n d landing-stage a r r a n g e m e n t s , in m i n i a t u r e t o Manaos. This toAvn of Iquitos, t h e only Atlantic p o r t of Peru, and the

VIEW OF THE MUELLE AND LANDING-STAGE AT IQUITOS

second in m a g n i t u d e of trade in the Republic of Peru, is served by a boat every month from Europe. a n d every six Aveeks from the States. Say tAventy departures and calls a year, Avith an aA^erage arrival (in 1007) of 1000 tons per vessel, or 20.000 tons per year ; just ten times the Aolume of the export. Of this q u a n t i t y about 4000 tons are coal, sold in Iquitos for £4 a ton, the rest being general cargo. Launches go out in large numbers, and t h e y seem by no means too numerous as yet. Iquitos has no cable or wireless connection: but Massisea, 700

INTRODUCTION

10

miles u p t h e Ucayali, can wireless to the Avorld noAv. and in a feAv m o n t h s Iquitos will be included in t h e system. (Manaos has a cable, b u t it is so frequently i n t e r r u p t e d t h a t when Iquitos gets her wireless connection she should be b e t t e r served t h a n Manaos.)

VIEW OF THE MUELLE AND LANDING -STAGE AT IQUITOS

I cannot recommend t h e Amazon River t o ordinary pleasure-seeking tourists. I t is infested by mosquitoes. Malaria is rife, yellow fever common, a n d m a n y other diseases more or less prevalent. My p a r t y Avas specially favoured, and no trouble or expense spared to make us all comfortable a n d safeguard our health. Practically speaking, we h a d no sickness of any

20 AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR sort, and far less discomfort than we had expected. To all my now numerous friends in the Amazon Valley, I beg to offer my sincerest thanks for their many kindnesses to my Avife and to myself.

.MARGARET BOOTH'S DIARY MANAOS TO LIMA March—May 1908 Manaos : March 12, 1908 : I Avent for a very lovely ride this morning. Breakfast a t five minutes to six, a n d soon aftenvards four splendid Spanish horses Avere b r o u g h t round. G. M. B . Avas too b u s y t o come, so Mr. S u t t o n Avas Aery glad t o go instead. I took a magnificent grey charger, Mr. S u t t o n Avas given a fiery chestnut, Captain Collings, who v e r y m u c h resembles t h e Iron D u k e on horseback, rode a bay. a n d Senor Noguera a coal-black. All t h e horses Avere someAvhat difficult to m o u n t , mine being by far t h e easiest ; Captain Collings was tAventy minutes hopping Avith one foot in the stirrup Avhilst t h e b a y Avaltzed round, a n d Mr. Sutton, Avhose legs are short, Avas also r a t h e r long in getting u p . B u t AArhen at last he succeeded, he Avas not long in overtaking t h e Captain and myself. H e fleAv p a s t us with a great clatter and straight doAvn t h e street. The Captain and I t u r n e d t o t h e right, there Avas a dead silence for a m i n u t e or tAVO, t h e n Ave heard clatter, clatter, clatter, a n d J o h n Gilpin again passed us a t a reckless speed. This h a p p e n e d several times before t h e c h e s t n u t settled doAvn. We rode along a broad sandy road, with small 21

22

MANAOS T O LIMA

shrubs a n d curious little e a r t h , plaster or wooden cottages on each side. A great deal of l a b o u r is needed here, and t o each i m m i g r a n t labourer is given a piece of land, on which he builds a hut a n d m a k e s a small garden. T h e whole effect is consequently very various a n d p i c t u r e s q u e . T h e roads are q u i t e impassable for carriages. At least so it seemed t o me, until Ave came to the race-course of Manaos, a n d t h e r e t o our astonishm e n t we found a m o t o r ! Mr. Sutton's chestnut gave a violent shy a n d swung round. Snap Avent t h e girths ! T h e motor-driver then offered to t a k e h i m t o t h e training stables for a neAv girth, b u t it was n o t to be ; t h e motor started, but in a couple of m i n u t e s h a d plunged into one of the m a n y m u d d y chasms which intersect the road! So Mr. S u t t o n walked with us to the stables, and there procured a new girth. Poor Mr. S. Avas very hot indeed. For a short time Ave Avatched an impromptu race on t h e course, between a French and English t h o r o u g h b r e d , a n d then turned to go home. We reached t h e highest point in the country round Manaos. a n d h a d a Aery pretty A'iew of the forest, billowing in every direction on one side, and on t h e other running gently down to the river. W h e n Ave arrived back in the town, I expected and verv much wanted to go straight home, but Mr. Noguera thought it a good opportunity to show ourselves off in all the principal streets of Manaos ! So we clattered through, bringing many people out to see us. when luckily it began to rain and Ave were obliged to end our ride. We arrived

MANAOS

23

home about eight o'clock. I did mv best to thank Mr. Noguera in rather halting French, to Avhich he replied that he Avas " Tout a AOUS," and would be delighted to take me out riding any time I Avished.

ACROSS THE LINES

AT M A N \ O S

Captain Collings, Avho was splendid, enjoyed himself thoroughly. We had a good Avash and change, and felt very much as if Ave had had a good day's hunting instead of a country ride ! March 13 : We Avent across the lines to-day, in

24

MANAOS T O L I M A

a b o x with t w o chairs. I t was m u c h t a m e r t h a n I expected. D i n e d with t h e L a c h l a n s . Very h o t . After dinner D r L a v a n d e y r a took us all to a concert in the theatre I t was stiflingly close, a n d the m y r i a d s of crickets (or grasshoppers) in t h e hall m a d e such a t r e m e n d o u s c h i r r u p i n g as almost to d r o w n t h e efforts of t h e t w o artists. T h e Brazilian ladies all looked very happy and hot, being dressed in very tight-fitting Parisian gowns. W e were b o t h glad t o get home again and to bed. March 11 : We Avent t o see the Lanjranc off t h i s m o r n i n g . Saying good-bye to Captain Collings m a d e us q u i t e sad. a n d it seemed strange to think t h e y would all be in E n g l a n d whilst Ave Avere still languishing in Brazil ! I h a d a little talk Avith Comte Beauregard. He told me he had had yellow feA*er and nearly died. l i e said : " J e ne suis pas par nature peureux, mais je suis bon Chretien, je Miis religieux et j'ai g r a n d peur de la mort ! Vous. madame. vous ctes sage, mais moi. je redoute l'enfer ! " He is an unworldly, simple old gentleman, and reminds me of Colonel New come. It was wonderful to see the Lanjranc drift away a n d sail down river with her one hundred souls a b o a r d . It stems such a responsibility for some one. The Captain, perhaps ! March 1.5: Sunday: early for our picnic.

This morning Ave started Breakfast at 7.30. The

MANAOS

25

p a r t y consisted of George a n d myself, Mr. Sclnvabe, Mr. Sutton, Mr. K u p a n d Dr. H o r t o n . The morning was delicious a n d beautifully c o o l ; after " launching " u p t h e Rio Negro for a b o u t an hour a n d a half, Ave t u r n e d into a small t r i b u t a r y Avhere we tried for some m i n u t e s t o a t t r a c t t h e a t t e n t i o n of a pilot, and at length got a regular m a n of t h e Avoods t o accept t h e position. His

AFTER

LUNCH ON THE

" PICHIS.'"

DR. HORTON ON THE RIGHT

OF^THE PHOTO, J REGONING NEXT HIM

canoe, howeA'er, Avas r a t h e r too small, and he fetched a larger one. An old lady haA'ing died this morning in one of t h e h u t s on t h e bank, our pilot went on shore t o contribute a few planks for her coffin ! F o r half an hour or more Ave canoed u p t h e stream, t h e woods a n d trees on either b a n k looking A'ery lovely, reflected in t h e still black Avater. Half t h e p a r t y , consisting of G. M. B . and myself, Mr. Sclvwabe a n d Mr. Sutton, walked t h r o u g h t h e Adrgin forest t o a small ford Avhere

26

MANAOS TO LIMA

Ave were to meet the rest of the party in a canoe I was disappointed with my walk as we saAv n( animal life, and although we heard many bird; calling, we caught sight of none. There were many insects, one especially interesting whicl exactly resembled a small green twig. Mr. Schwab* thinks they are rather rare. One beautiful butterfh Ave caught. The trees Avere not so fine as I hac expected, and although there Avas something ver\ Avonderful and strange in the perfect stillness anc solemnity of the forest, the absence of all colour} Avas depressing. Mr. Kup and the Doctor Avere much excited, a} they had shot a monkey on their AY ay through the forest. It was only Mr. Kup's fourth shot which killed the monkey, and eAren then the pooi little animal, though dead, still hung on to the tree with his tail. The man of the Avoods SAvarmed up for him in a marvellous manner, the trunk being as thick as himself, and no branches till he got to the monkey ! We came back in the canoe, Avhilst the others walked back the way Ave had come, but unfortunately rain began, and prevented us from seeing this very beautiful scenery at its best. The watei Avas 40 ft. deep, and the forest almost as thick as on the land itself, so that Ave canoed amongst the actual tree-tops, pushing ourselves from one trunk to another, the man of the Avoods Avhistling the while. We arrived back at the launch rathei wet, and some of the others Avere quite soaked through. So Ave changed as best Ave could, and ate a very hearty lunch ! The weather Avas toe

MANAOS TO IQUITOS

27

b a d t o p e r m i t of visiting t h e other side of the river as h a d been intended, so Ave came straight home, tired a n d Aery hot. March 16 : Spent a very hot morning packing. W h e n Ave boarded t h e Perscveranca at 2.30, everybody came on board to Avish us good-bye,

G. M. B. CATCHING BUTTERFLIES WHILE THE NATIVES PULL OUR CANOES UP SOME RAPIDS

a n d plenty of c h a m p a g n e Avas drunk. We s t a r t e d a t 3 o'clock in a great t h u n d e r s t o r m . At a b o u t 4.30 Ave came t o t h e point Avhere t h e Rio Negro joins t h e Amazon ; here it Avas AXTV curious t o see t h e sharp outline of t h e Avaters Avhere t h e black Negro ended a n d t h e oliAe-broAvn Amazon began. I t Avas so beautifully cool on deck t h a t Ave slung our h a m m o c k s a n d mosquito-nets t o avoid sleeping in our stuffy cabins. As G. M. B . Avas very tired from his ten d a y s '

28

MANAOS T O L I M A

h a r d work a n d social duties in Manaos, we Avent t o bed early. SS. " Per sever anga " : March 17 : W e see some lovely butterflies from t h e boat, b u t t h e y are almost impossible t o catch. H e r o n s a b o u n d also, aigrettes in quantities, kingfishers small a n d big, a n d haAvks. P i u m s too a n d sandflies begin to shoAv themselves, n o t a v e r y welcome addition t o mosquitoes ! At 3.30 Ave land some m e n t o pick grass for the cattle on board. W h i l s t t h e y are doing it, we visit a Brazilian farmer, a n d go r o u n d his estate. The C a p t a i n tells us it cost h i m £5000 to build his houses a n d sheds. Cattle, sheep a n d chickens e Ac ry where. P r e t t y little green parroquets, as n u m e r o u s as sparroAvs in E n g l a n d , are flying about in t h e orchard, eating t h e fruit. G. M. B.'s h e a d is so b a d t h a t he eats no dinner, t a k e s his calomel a n d retires t o bed about 8 o'clock. After p i q u e t Avith Dr. H o r t o n , I t u r n in myself. We finel t h e h a m m o c k s verv comfortable. Mai eh I S : About 2 o'clock Ave were suddenly startled by two gun-shots ; Ave rushed round to t h e other side of t h e boat, Avhence the sound came, a n d found Captain W a t r i n had shot an alligator. W e were sorry not t o be there and see t h e creature. The\- are rarely seen when the r i \ e r is so high ; t h e y prefer basking in the sun when t h e mud-banks are exposed. March 10 : G. M. B. very much himself again, with only a suspicion of headache, AA'hich gradually gets better during the day.

MANAOS TO IQUITOS

29

I t is so beautifully cool this morning t h a t I Avear m y s c u t u m t o keep Avarm ; a n d last night I was obliged t o go a n d fetch m y rug, it Avas so cold in the hammock. G. sights an alligator on a log, t h e Captain r u n s Avith his gun. a n d G. takes a shot a t him. B u t he is too far off, a n d t h e beast splashes into t h e river as t h e shot enters t h e water just beyond. We also see a t u r t l e . W h e n t h e m ' e r is IOAV, t h e beach, Ave are told, is coA'ered with alligators; turtles, parrots, and sometimes eA'cn deer a n d monkeys are seen coming doAvn t o drink. The forest t o - d a y is very Avonderful : it is so thick, and t h e great trees are so closely b o u n d together with creepers and festoons t h a t it looks quite impenetrable. T h e Captain says t h a t m a n y thoughtless sailors t h i n k they Avill go and see Avhat it is like for 30 Yards, b u t never come out again. I can Avell belieAre it. The evening is gorgeous : G. and I sit by t h e pilot, and are advised by t h e Captain to p u t h a t s on ! W e fail t o see t h e d a r k spaces in t h e sky Avhich so impressed Cousin Charles, b u t t h e Southern Cross is very A'isible. March 20 : P o u r i n g Avith rain this morning, and very cool. W e pass t h e R i o J u t a z . At breakfast Ave have tremendous tales of bullfights. George a n d Dr. H o r t o n , Avith eyes s t a r t i n g out of their heads, argue whether t h e gentleman (or lady) diver into a 6-ft. t a n k or t h e toreador a t

30

MANAOS T O L I M A

a bull-fight, have t h e greatest skill a n d n e r v e . The Captain makes m a n y i n o p p o r t u n e r e m a r k s , a n d we tell him he m u c h resembles t h e G e r m a n E m p e r o r ! The trees a n d scenery along t h e b a n k s are much t h e same, b u t Ave notice p a r t i c u l a r l y a tree Avith a bare black-looking t r u n k . T h e y say the wood of this tree is very h a r d a n d very expensive. It is used for t h e floors of t h e best Brazilian houses, generally in alternate stripes with a h a r d Avhite wood. The Avhite ants, Avhich eat all t h e softer Avoods. do not a t t a c k these tAvo kinds. March 21 : This morning, about 1.30, Ave passed t h e Hnascar on her Avay from Iquitos to Manaos. G. M. B . a n d Mr. Robilliard. both looking r a t h e r odd in pyjamas, dressing-gowns a n d straw h a t s , went on board with our mail and h a d a short talk witli Captain Forbes. The moon was b r i g h t and t h e current strong, but the little b o a t b r o u g h t t h e m back quite safely. At '.) o'clock, as t h e Captain Avanted to cut more grass for t h e cattle on board. Ave landed at a small farm. It was d a m p and m u d d y underfoot, the mosquitoes were prettA' bad, b u t the piums were more t h a n any of us could stand ! They covered our faces and hands, and t h e air seemed aliAC Avith t h e m . I had brought m y butterfly-net with me, b u t had to use it to cover m y face and neck. These piums are insects about the size of a small fly ; they bury t h e m s e h e s in the skin in an instant, producing a small irritating spot Avith a bright red drop of blood in the centre. The farm Avas called " Novo P a r a d i s o '* !

MANAOS T O I Q U I T O S

31

March 22 : W e spent rather a disturbed night. About 11.30 it became so foggy t h a t t h e Captain t h o u g h t it Avise t o anchor. We could h a r d l y see t h e banks, a n d an hour earlier we h a d run into a huge log, which Ave could only get rid of by stopping a n d dropping astern. At 3.30 A.M. t h e fog lifted, b u t when the Captain

TABATINGA BARRACKS (BRAZILIAN

FRONTIER)

Avanted t o start, t h e anchor Avould not come u p . After a good deal of trouble and shaking of t h e ship, it was raised Avith a log attached. The rain t o - d a y Avas incessant, and, early in t h e morning, came doAvn in torrents, as it well knoAvs IIOAV t o in t h e Amazon Valley. We passed m a n y fine cotton-trees a n d one gorgeous tree floAvering purple, b u t t h e weather was so dull t h a t we did not see it a t its best.

32

MANAOS TO LIMA We saAv many parroquets in flocks, all chattering hard. Also a couple of parrots and a couple of macaws. The parrots and macaAvs always fly in pairs, and so close to one another t h a t their Avings look as if they were touching. One can see very little of their brilliant plumage Avhen they are flying high, as we have seen them doing up to now.

SOLDIERS

QUARTERS AT TABATINGA

March 2 3 : Last night about 10 o'clock Ave arrived at Laura Esdre, the State frontier of Brazil, a small place where Ave had to have our papers examined. We then went on to Esperanca, the Federal frontier of Brazil, and as it took about an hour from Laura Esdre, we arrived there too late for our papers to be seen, and Ave were obliged to anchor for the night. The examining gentleman came on board early to pass us, and by 8 o'clock Ave were at Tabatinga, the Military frontier of Brazil, and

MANAOS TO IQUITOS

33

a most ridiculous place. There Avere two or three a n t i q u a t e d cannons stuck on t o p of t h e m u d bank, a s e n t r y - b o x with a nigger s t a n d i n g outside Avith a gun, a n d a feAV fossilised gun-carriages in a TOAV behind. B u t as there are no roads either in or anyAvhere near T a b a t i n g a , theAr seem r a t h e r useless. The barracks looked picturesque in t h e distance,

GUNS AND SENTRY AT TABATINGA

b u t Avhen Ave came close, Ave found nothing b u t a long IOAV AvhiteAvashed front, with t h e Royal Arms of t h e Brazilian E m p i r e still over t h e portal ! The officials h a d n o t eA'en t a k e n t h e trouble to remove t h e m Avhen t h e Republic Avas established. There Avas no back to this imposing front, no roof, only a feAv ruined Avails, Avith grass and trees growing inside, a n d a feAV d i r t y hammocks^ slung for t h e soldiers. T h e Avhole t h i n g looked extraordinarily dilapidated a n d impotent. c

34

MANAOS TO LIMA

The Perseveranca had found it very difficult to anchor close to the bank, and the current had dragged her, anchor and all, a quarter of a mile beloAv Tabatinga, so that Avhen Ave wished to get back to her in our small boat, Ave had to roAV right into the middle of the river, Avhere the current Avas tremendous. The gangAvay Avas on the far side of the ship, and we crossed the Perseveranca about 30 yards above her bows and then made a dart for the ladder. The first officer put the helm of our little boat hard over, so t h a t Ave charged the ship broadside on, and, as the officer had made a good shot, the sailors, Avho Avere very agile and strong, Avere able to seize the ladder and just hold on by the skin of their teeth, and so prevent our smashing in to the sides of the Perseveranca. Although a wonderful feat on the part of the first officer, it Avas horribly risky and ought never to haAe been attempted. In about ten minutes Ave arriAed at the Permian Military frontier, Leticia. This Avas a neat little place, much more attractiAe than Tabatinga. We Avere receiA'ed by a gentleman Avho spoke English very Avell, and also, to our great joy. met a gentleman who has been to Lima via the Pachitea and Pichis RiAers, Puerta Bermudez and Oroya. A P e r m i a n lady presented me Avith a little parroquet, which seemed Aery tame, though I soon found it was not so, but had its Avings and tail clipped short. I took it on board, but it couldn't bear to be noticed, and Avould not eat. I left it on a chair where it had been sitting all the afternoon, and

MANAOS TO IQUITOS

35

Avhen I came b a c k it Avas gone ! I t m u s t have heard t h e h u n d r e d s of p a r r o q u e t s chattering and screeching in t h e forest, a n d m a d e a last desperate a t t e m p t t o join t h e m and fallen overboard. Poor little t h i n g ! Jose c a u g h t me some butterflies, tAvo yellow and one blue. W e also saw a large

DR. HORTON AND MY

LETICIA

PARROQUET

metallic-blue butterfly, b u t it was too SAvift to be caught. I hope Jose, n e x t time he comes Avithfme as a butterfly boy. Avill not wear such s m a r t t i g h t boots. They c a n ' t be comfortable for running. This evening t h e guard, Avho is accompanying us from Leticia t o Iquitos, told us some cheering and useful things a b o u t t h e t r i p from Iquitos to Lima. He has tAvice done it, a n d has giAren us m a n y hints

36 MANAOS TO LIMA as to tambos (hotels), &c. He also told us that Avireless telegraphy runs from Puerta Bermudez to Oroya ! This rather depresses me ! March 24 : My parroquet Avas found by the Captain in a dark corner of the ship. I t seemed none the Avorse, and looks a little happier than it did yesterday. I don't quite knoAV Avhat I shall do Avith it. This afternoon we saAv Avhat seemed to us lovely crimson orchids. They were groAving up in a large tree, Avhere orchids should groAv, but Ave Avere not quite close enough to see properly. I have spent a verv busy day Letters, Spanish. German, and reading " Franilev Parsonage" Avith G. M. B. It is Avonderful the way the days on board Avhirl round. I haA^cn't had time to do half the things I meant to on this journey—as to reading, I mean. No ••Faust" and one chapter of Carlyle so far! Iquitos: March 25 : A lovely sunshiny day. Avhich is Aery delicious after yesterday's rain. I lost my parroquet again last night, but a series of small squeaks revealed him up in the curtains of our cabin ! At about 1.30 Ave sight Iquitos, and actually arrive there at 2.30. We are met bA' a great crowd of people. Captain Good, Mr. Tregoning, Mr. Sanceau (Louis), and Mr. Mackay are there, and Aery Avclcoming. The first view of Iquitos Avas very disappointing to me. I somehoAv expected a smaller Manaos, but found it quite different, and

IQUITOS

37

the SAvift current running right up to the other side of the pontoon makes it look very hopeless as a harbour. The Captain and Mr. Robilliard have a difference of opinion as to bringing the ship up to the pontoon at once, and Ave eventually Avait for a signal from

THE LANDING-STAGE AT IQUITOS ON OUR ARRIVAL

Captain Good, telling us to come. After Ave have said our hoAV-do-you-do's Ave land and take a Avalk inthetoAvn. It is a curious little place, good footpavements, shocking roads, Avith open drains running doAvn the middle of the street. We have a long talk with Mr. Tregoning and Mr. Sanceau about our trip, and it seems as if we shall have no difficulty in getting a good launch to take us from the Pachitea to Puerta Bermudez. By-the-by, our little Spanish guard made us

38

MANAOS TO LIMA

an offer, through Mr. Robilliard, to take us over to Lima for £250. We did not accept ! Captain Good, Messrs. Tregoning, Sanceau and Mackay come to dinner. The mosquitoes are very

CANOEING FROM BERMUDEZ TO J E S S U P I

bad, and I am at last driven into the mosquitohouse, Avhere I find perfect peace. Mr. Tregoning is much to the fore, and G. M. B. thoroughly enjoys talking things OATer Avith him. March 26 : I don't leaA'e the boat in the morning, and G. M. B. comes back from his rounds Avith Captain Good verv tired and Aery hungry. We all lunch on board.

IQUITOS 30 It is filthily dirty on deck, as they have been moving all the coal forward, in order to get the propellers as much out of water as possible. Two blades have been broken and have to be mended

CANOEING FROM BERMUDEZ TO J E S S U P I

to-morroAv, and then the coaling Avill commence again the day after. We dine at a restaurant, Bella Vista, Avith our usual party. It is ACIV pleasant, as there are hardly any mosquitoes. Afterwards Ave go back to the house and are shown some Avonderful Indian clothes and arms. We are told theAT are to be

40

MANAOS T O LIMA

given t o us ! Two grass h a m m o c k s , some grass skirts, &c., a Avonderfully Avoven coat, r a t h e r like t h e coats worn by t h e shepherds near Jerusalem, only a good deal finer. Mr. Sanceau shows us a blow-pipe gun Avith poisoned d a r t s . March 27 : Dr. H o r t o n a n d I s t a r t out for a Avalk in t h e forest. W e go t h r o u g h I q u i t o s and arrive

IQUITOS STREET

a t a place Avhere Avomen and girls are Avashing. Our p a t h gets Aery Avet and soon becomes a simple s t r e a m Avith, cwery yard or so, a feAv rotten logs laid across it. As AVC both have on thin shoes and clean clothes, AVC determine to giA^e it up and try a n o t h e r d a y with more suitable boots and gaiters. We caught some Aery pretty little red butterflies, b u t did not see much else. The Avomen here all seem to go about Avith their hair doAvn their backs and a p a n a m a hat stuck on

IQUITOS

41

top. They h a v e very fine black hair, b u t otherwise are n o t good to look at. Y e s t e r d a y G. M. B . a n d I watched two girls a b o u t twelve years old diving and swimming in t h e Avater. T h e y Avere just like fish and loved t o run doAvn t h e b a n k and throAV themselves into the water, laughing Avith delight. Some boys Avho were fishing near by t h o u g h t it great fun t o throAV stones a n d m u d at t h e m (I dare say they

m

*

IQUITOS STREET

Avere very annoying]y disturbing t h e fish), b u t they took no notice a n d presently came out of t h e Avater, a n d popped their pink cotton flouneey skirts right over t h e dripping g a r m e n t s in Avhich they h a d been b a t h i n g . Their ciA'ilisation is very superficial. " Grattez le Russe et vous trouvez le T a r t a r e ! " March 28 : W e have tAvo calls, one from t h e Brazilian Consul, a t a b o u t 8 A.M., and one from

42

MANAOS T O L I M A

a Sefior Felippe , r a t h e r a nice Portuguese gentleman, who owns t w o launches. T h e Brazilian Consul is a verv poor t h i n g indeed—hardly a m a n . I t was very hot to-day, a n d t h e r e seemed t o be scarcely a b r e a t h of air stirring. C a p t a i n Good's house is very stuffy, as t h e y s h u t t h e Avindows on one side of t h e house t o keep t h e rain out, and therefore there is no t h r o u g h d r a u g h t . To-day m y p a r r o q u e t b e c a m e too adventurous, overbalanced, a n d fell into t h e Avater. The poor little t h i n g flapped a b o u t a n d was gradually getting more a n d more e x h a u s t e d when one of t h e boys beloAv j u m p e d overboard a n d rescued it. H e Avas obliged t o p u t t h e bird in his m o u t h Avhen he had reached it, a n d bring it b a c k in t h a t way. Parroq u e t Avas very sorry for itself for a n hour or so, a n d looked a miserable drenched object. I am sending it back from Iquitos in t h e Manco. Mr. Sanceau has promised to look after it for me. March 20 : T h e Great Iquitos B a n q u e t ! T h e guests were asked for 11 o'clock, and they begin coming at t h a t hour. W e shake hands verv busily for a b o u t an hour, a n d I do m y best to e n t e r t a i n t h e five ladies : Mrs. Cazes, Avife of the English Consul, Miss Macaulay of Manchester, Avho is liA'ing out here as goATerness to Mr. Morey s children, a n d three P e r m i a n ladies, Seiiora Salgado, Seiiora Vega, and Sehora dc la Torre. T h e P e r m i a n ladies arc r a t h e r difficult to m a n a g e , as t h e y canj[only talk Spanish, except Sehora Salgado, who talks F r e n c h . At a b o u t 12 o'clock we sit doAvn to our meal. I sit betAveen

K PJ

«i PS o O fn O

a PH

H W

& G> •