New Orleans (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NEW ORLEANS

MUSEUMS JAZZ FESTIVALS • MAPS GARDENS • HOTELS • WALKS SHOPS • CAJUN FOOD • BARS THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU

New Orleans Area by Area Most of the sights described in this guide lie within the five areas shown on the map below. Each of these areas has its own chapter. The center of New Orleans – the Upper and Lower French Quarters, and the Warehouse and Central Business Districts – is relatively compact and easy to get around, and the suburbs are served by convenient transport links. As one of the busiest international ports in the country, the city is constantly growing; the sights outside the city limits are described in Beyond New Orleans (see pp136–57).

MID-CITY Pages 114–127

GARDEN DISTRICT AND UPTOWN Pages 98–113

MID-CITY

LOWER FRENCH QUARTER, MARIGNY, AND TREME Pages 66–83

MARIGN NY TR ME TRE

LOWER R FRENCH H QUARTER ER

UPPER FRE RENC RE NCH QUARTER RT R UPPER FRENCH QUARTER

W REH WA R OU RE USE AN AND D CEN NTR TRAL BUSINESS ESS DISTRICTS

Pages 50–65

GARDEN DISTRICT AND UPTOWN

I P P I S I S S S I M 0 kilometers

WAREHOUSE AND CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICTS

1

Pages 84–97 0 mile miles mil

1

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NEW ORLEANS

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NEW ORLEANS MAIN CONTRIBUTOR: MARILYN WOOD

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CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 PROJECT EDITOR Alejandro Lajud ART EDITOR Victor Hugo Garnica EDITOR Karla Sánchez DESIGNERS Carlos Muñoz, Alejandro Lajud, Victor Hugo Garnica

Dorling Kindersley Limited SENIOR PUBLISHING MANAGER Louise Bostock Lang PUBLISHING MANAGER Kate Poole DIRECTOR OF PUBLISHING Gillian Allan EDITORS Stephanie Driver, Mary Sutherland, Andrew Szudek MAP CO-ORDINATORS David Pugh, Casper Morris DTP CO-ORDINATORS Jason Little, Conrad van Dyk PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Joanna Bull MAIN CONTRIBUTOR

Marilyn Wood MAPS Ben Bowles, Rob Clynes and James Macdonald at Mapping Ideas Ltd. PHOTOGRAPHERS

Julio Rochon, Jaime Baldovinos

New Orleans ironwork, Lower French Quarter

INTRODUCING NEW ORLEANS

ILLUSTRATORS

Ricardo Almazan, Ricardo Almazan Jr. Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China First American Edition, 2002 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2004, 2005, 2008

FOUR GREAT DAYS IN NEW ORLEANS 10 PUTTING NEW ORLEANS ON THE MAP 12 THE HISTORY OF NEW ORLEANS 14

Copyright 2002, 2008 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE) WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED.

NEW ORLEANS AT A GLANCE 30 NEW ORLEANS THROUGH THE YEAR 40

A CATALOGING RECORD OF THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN 978-0-7566-3952-5 Front cover main image: wrought-iron balcony in the French Quarter The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-todate as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements, and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.

The bustling Central Business District

View of the Central Business District from the Mississippi River

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NEW ORLEANS AREA BY AREA BOURBON STREET 46 ROYAL STREET 48 UPPER FRENCH QUARTER 50 LOWER FRENCH QUARTER, MARIGNY, AND TREME 66 WAREHOUSE AND CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICTS 84 GARDEN DISTRICT AND UPTOWN 98

Mansion on St. Charles Avenue

BEYOND NEW ORLEANS 136

TRAVEL INFORMATION 214

TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

NEW ORLEANS STREET FINDER 222

WHERE TO STAY 160 RESTAURANTS, CAFES, AND BARS 170 SHOPPING IN NEW ORLEANS 186 Preservation Hall, one of New Orleans’ best jazz venues

ENTERTAINMENT IN NEW ORLEANS 194

MID-CITY 114

SURVIVAL GUIDE

THREE GUIDED WALKS 128

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 206

Vegetables and fruit for sale in the French Market

INDEX 236 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 246 PHRASE BOOK 248

St. Charles Avenue streetcar

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6

H O W

T O

U S E

T H I S

G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T

his DK Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you to get the most from your visit to New Orleans. It provides detailed information and expert recommendations. The chapter titled Introducing New Orleans maps the city and the region, and sets it in its historical and cultural context; it also describes the most salient events of the year. New Orleans at a Glance is an overview of the city’s main attractions. New Orleans Area by Area starts on page 44. This is the main

sightseeing section, and it covers all of the important sights, with photographs, maps and illustrations. Beyond New Orleans covers nearby Cajun Country, as well as the historic plantations. Information about hotels, restaurants, shops and markets, entertainment, and sports is found in Travelers’ Needs. The Survival Guide section has advice on everything from using New Orleans’ medical services, telephones, banking, and post offices to the public transportation system.

FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND NEW ORLEANS The city has been divided into five sightseeing areas, each with its own section in the guide. Each section opens with a portrait of the area, summing up its character and history, and listing all the sights to be covered. The sights      

   

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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Historic Buildings

Museums and Galleries

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are numbered and clearly located on an Area Map. After this comes a Street-by-Street Map focusing on the most interesting part of the area. Finding your way about the area section is made easy by a numbering system.

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STAR SIGHTS


St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo, and Presbytère

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H O W

T O

NEW ORLEANS AREA MAP The colored areas shown on this map (see inside front cover) are the five main sightseeing areas used in this guide. Each is covered in a full chapter in New Orleans Area by Area (see pp44–135). They are highlighted on other maps throughout the book. In New Orleans at a Glance, for example, they help you locate the top sights (see pp30–31).

U S E

T H I S

G U I D E

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Practical information provides everything

sight’s position on the area map and its place in the chapter.

you need to know to visit each sight. Map references pinpoint the sight’s location on the Street Finder map (see pp222–9).

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