Northern Spain (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NORTHERN SPAIN

RESTAURANTS • HISTORY WALKING • CHURCHES MOUNTAINS • HOTELS CATHEDRALS • BEACH RESORTS MUSEUMS • NATIONAL PARKS THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NORTHERN SPAIN

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NORTHERN SPAIN

CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 Produced by Hachette Livre Polska sp. z o.o., Warsaw, Poland SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Paweł Pasternak CONTRIBUTORS

Agnieszka Drewno, Zuzanna Jakubowska, Renata Szmidt, Carlos Marrodán Casas CARTOGRAPHY Magdalena Polak PHOTOGRAPHERS Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowicz ILLUSTRATORS Michał Burkiewicz, Paweł Marczak EDITOR Maria Betlejewska TYPESETTING AND LAYOUT Elżbieta Dudzińska

Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore. Printed and bound by L. Rex Printing Company Limited, China

A tympanum of the Iglelsia de San Saturnino in Pamplona

First American Edition 2007 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

INTRODUCING NORTHERN SPAIN

Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014

PUTTING NORTHERN SPAIN ON THE MAP 10

Reprinted with revisions 2009 Copyright ©2007, 2009 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company

DISCOVERING NORTHERN SPAIN 12

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE),

A PORTRAIT OF NORTHERN SPAIN 14

WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED.

NORTHERN SPAIN THROUGH THE YEAR 30

A CATALOG RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

ISSN: 1542-1554 ISBN: 978-0-7566-6113-7

THE HISTORY OF NORTHERN SPAIN 34

Front cover main image: La Ainsa in the Pyrenees

The information in every DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. Vineyards near the Miño river in Galicia

Fishing boats in the port of Luarca on the Asturian coast

SURVIVAL GUIDE PRACTICAL INFORMATION 240 TRAVEL INFORMATION 248 INDEX 256 The town of Laspuña near Ainsa, surrounded by imposing massifs

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 267

NORTHERN SPAIN CENTRAL AND EASTERN PYRENEES 170 AREA BY AREA NORTHERN SPAIN AT A GLANCE 46

TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS WHERE TO STAY 196

GALICIA 48 WHERE TO EAT 212 SHOPPING IN NORTHERN SPAIN 228 ENTERTAINMENT IN NORTHERN SPAIN 232 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 234

A figure in the Iglesia de Santa María del Palacio in Logroño

ASTURIAS AND CANTABRIA 80 THE BASQUE COUNTRY 118 NAVARRA AND LA RIOJA 144

Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela (see pp62–3)

Sculpted figures in the portal of San Bartolomé in Logroño

PHRASE BOOK 269

6

H O W

T O

U S E

T H I S

G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T

are described, with maps, photographs and illustrations. Suggestions for food, drink, accommodation, shopping and activities are given, as well as tips on everything from the Spanish telephone system to travelling to and getting around the region.

his guide will help you get the most from your stay in Northern Spain. It provides both expert recommendations and detailed practical information. The guide maps the region and sets it in its historical and cultural context. The important sights NORTHERN SPAIN REGION BY REGION

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