The French Laundry Cookbook

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THE

FRENCH

LAUNDRY COOKBOOK

....'!!!!!!o. _ ...::�. THOMAS

KELLER

$50.00 The French Laundry Cookbook Thoma. KeUar with Susl. H.Uer and Michael Ruhlman

Photograph.

by Deborah Jane.

Thomas Keller, chef/proprietor of the French Laundry In the Napa Volley-"the most exciting place to eat in the United States/ wrote Ruth Reichl in The New York Times-is a wizard, a purist, a man obsessed with getting it right. And this, his first cookbook, is every bit as sotisfying 05 a French Laundry meal itself: a series of small, Impeccable, highly refined, intensely focused courses. Most dazzling is how simple Keller's methods are: squeegeeing the moisture from the skin on fish so it sautes beautjfully; poochlng eggs In a deep pot of water for perfect shope; the initiol steeping in the shell that makes cooking raw lobster out of the shell a cinch; using vinegar as a flavor enhancer; the repeated washing of bones for stock for the cleanest, clearest tastes.

From innovative soup techniques, to the proper way to cook green vegetables, to secrets of great fish cookery, to the creation of breathtaking desserts; from beurre monte to foie gras au torchon, to 0 wild and thoroughly unexpected toke on coffee and doughnuts, The

French Laundry Cookbook captures,

through recipes, essays, profiles, and extraordinary photography, one of America's great restaurants, its great chef, and the food that makes both unique.

One hundred and fifty superlative recipes are exact recipes from the French Laundry kitchen­ no shortcuts have been taken, no critical steps ignored, all have been thoroughly tested in home kitchens. If you can't get to the French Laundry, you can now re-create at home the very experience the Wine Spectator described as "as close to dining perfection as it gets."

THE

FRENCH

LAUNDRY

COOKBOOK

Copyrlghl C 1999 by Thom•• Keller Deborah Jones Pholographs eopyrlghl C 1999 by All rights reserved. electronically. o� by any means. No porrion of Ihl. book my be reproduced-mechanically. ion or the publisher. permiss written without pylngg Includin pholoco

Published In 1999 by Arli"n n Division o(Workmnn Publishing,lnc.

708 8ro.dw.y New York. N.Y. 10003 www.workrnnllh.cb.com l.ihrnry ofCongrc811 Catnloging-in Publication Dntn Keller.Thomas. The French Lnundry Cookhook/hyThomns Keller wilh Susie Heller nnd Michnel Ruhlman: photographs by Dehornh Joncs. p.

CIIl.

ISBN 1-57965-126-7 I. Cookery. French. 2. French L.1llllllry (Resl,u""II) I. lIelier. Susie. II. nuhlm.n. Mieh.el. 1963-111. Tille.

TX719.K35 1999 641.5'09794' 19-

51

P't'ct'dlntl �pfl"Od,

It'll

Dunljlt'ncu Clob Solod, poge 92 Abovt' SlIlod

01 Pel,tt' Summer Tomatoes, poge 56, right Vlne·Rlpe Tomalo So.bt'l with Tomoto Torto••, pogt' 57

First Course

5S

S a l a d of Petite S u nl l n e l' TOlllatoes w i t h Vine-Ripe T o m a t o S O I'l>ct

------- o�-----

T O M AT O

C O U L I S MAKES AeoUT

T O M AT O

SORBET

2 1f� pounds tomatoes (6 to 7 medium tomatoes), peeled, seeded, and chopped into

I cUP

I pound tomatoes (about 3 medium tomatoes),

1 tablespoon canolo oil

, 12 teaspoons minced rosemary 1 112 teaspoons minced Italian parsley

peeled, seeded, and chopped into

C H E R RY

1- inch pieces

I - inch pieces

% cup finely grated Pormigiono-Reggiono

T O M AT O E S

4 to 5 dozen (depending on size) assorted small

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1/3 cup finely chopped yellow onion

If� cup extra virgin olive oil

cherry tomatoes, such as Sun Gold, Sweet

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

and Green Grope, at room temperature

GARLIC

Pinch of cayenne

l/� cup plus 2 tablespoons Simple Syrup (page 271) Julienned zest of

Extra virgin alive oil

to taste

Pinch of chopped tarragon

112 orange (removed with

TUlLES

MAKES 2

TO 3 D O Z E N

Six lf2-inch-thick 2.inch-round brioche Croutons (poge 238)

a zester; 1 teospoon), brought to 0 boil in cold water. strained and repeated

4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted buHer,

Basil Oil (page 1 66), in a squeeze boUle

softened but still cool to the touch

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

I large egg white

2 teaspoons garlic paste (very finely minced garlic)

to taste

T

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

IIA cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar

l lf2 teaspoons kosher solt

2 additional times

10Ds

he most intriguing clement of this dish is the tomato sorbet. a great

them until very smooth. Press the mixture through a tamis (see page 73)

example of reducing and concentrating the flavor of an ingredient

(there will be about 1 cup of puree) and return it to the blender. Add the

so that it becomes more intense than the orib';nal. Jt's very refreshing.

remaining sorbet ingredients and blend again. Strain through a ehinois

especially paired with a variety of cherry tomatoes (usc as many

(see page 73). There should be about 1 1/z cups of sorbet basc; cool the

different kinds as possible and the best ava.ilable. preferably ones that

mixture in an icc-water bath or in the refrigerator until cold.

arc vine-ripened) set on a brioche crouton and garnished \\'i lh a light.

Freeze the sorbet in an icc-cream machine. Store the sorbet in a covered

crisp garlic tuile. The garlic tuiles arc best the day they arc baked. They

container in the freezer. Tomato sorbet is best eaten the day it is made. but

have an addictive flavor and can bc catcn alone or as a garnish for salads.

it can be storcd for up to 2 days; you will probably have some left over.

This recipe makes quite a lot. but it's difficult to mix less batter. and the

FOR

excess can always be frozen for another time.

ldtchen towel to remove the excess liquid. Place the tomatoes in a

THE

T O MATO

COUltS:

Squeeze the chopped tomatoes in a

blender with the remaimng ingredients and blend well. Strain the caul is F O R T H E T O M ATO

S O R B E T:

Place the tomatoes in a saucepan and

temperature before serving.

minutes. or until the tomatoes have reduced by half; there may still be a

FOR THE GARLIC T U l L E S:

small amount of liquid remaining.

medium bowl. Whisk the butter in another bowl until it is complctely

Meanwhile. heat lhe oil in a skillet over low heat. Add the onions and cook gently for 7 to 8 minutes. or until tender. Place the reduced tomatoes and the onions in a blender and puree

S6

through a ehinois. Store. covered. in the rcfrigerator. Bring to room

bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook. stirring oflen. for about 45

The French

Laundry

C o o k b o o k.

Mix together the flour, sugar. and salt in a

smooth and mayonnaise-like in texture. Using a stifr spatula or spoon. beal the egg white into the dry ingredients until completely incorporated and smooth. Whisk in the

Vine-Ripe "ro m a t o Sorbet with Tornato Tartare a n d B a s H

softened butter by thirds. scraping the sides as necessary and whisking until the batter is creamy and without any lumps. Add the garlic and

T O M AT O TA R T A R E

1

vine-ripe tomoto, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped

Parmesan. mixing until the batter is smooth and shiny. Transfer the

Fleur de sci

batter to a smaller container. as it will be easier to work with. and set aside.

Kosher salt to taste

The batter should be used within a day; any excess batter can be frozen. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Oil

1

teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

114 teaspoon minced shallots

Place a Silpat (see Sources. page 315) on the counter and spoon about 3/, teaspoon of the tuile batter into one comer of the Silpat. Use the back

of a spoon to spread the mixture into a thin 211z-inch round. The batter

'IB teaspoon rcd wine vinegar

'12 teaspoon minced

chives

doesn't have to be completely even-the SUpat can show through in

Balsamic Gloze (poge 238), In a squeeze boH'e

sections: in fact. the baked luiles look more interestingifthcrc are gaps in

Chive Oil (page 1 66)

the wafers. Continue to form additional tuiles. spacing them about I inch

Tamalo Sorbet (page 56), made with Mandarin tomatoes

apart. Sprinkle each tuile with a small amount of rosemary and parsley. Place the Silpat on a baking sheet and bake for 8 to 1 0 minutes. or until the tuiles are browned and crisp. Use a small narrow spatula to

or other vine-ripe tomatoes Fleur de sel

6 Gartic Tuiles (page 56)

remove the tuiles from the pan and store them in an airtight container.

boiling lightly salted water for a few seconds. just until the skins have

T

loosened. Peel the tomatoes with a paring knifc. TIlis can be done a few

Girl. Green Zebra. and Mandarin arc just a few that work beautifully. It

Repeat to make more tuiles. or freeze the cx'1ra batter for another time. F O R T H E C H E R R Y T O M AT O E S

Blanch the tomatoes in a large pot of

hours ahead and the tomatoes kept covered at room temperature. TO COMPLETE

If the sorbet is very hard. remove it from the freezer

his tomato sorbet dish is simpler to assemble than the salad of petite or cherry summer tomatoes on page 56. The sorbet can be made in a

variety of flavors and colors by chanbring the type of tomato you use: Early has a very clean flavor. so it also works perfectly as a plated canape or aU by itself as an mtcrmezzo. or palate refresher between courses.

for several minutes to soften slightly. Toss the cherry tomatoes and a splash of olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Arrange a. base layer of cherry tomatoes on each crouton and top with

-[11ve C u t R Se.'ved w i t h

I

Vcgc l n b l c s .

011

BJ'nlHcd Clpol J J n J O n l o n H . n n d Thy.nc

value this dlllh a ll 4 chefbecauae it', a learning experience for my IItaff.

For the .hOlnka. shouldertl. breasts. and neck: Braise in 13mb stock

II givCl them an underltandin8orhow to break down an entire four·

in the oven for 3boUl 3lf:a hours. oruntil tcnder. Cool the bmb pieces i n

legged lmlmal and where the individual pans come from. Theile things

the stock for an hour. then remove them and IIrain t h e siock. Rescrve

are Important for any chtfto know.

the brcuts and remove the meat (rom thc shanks. shoulders. and neck.

The exciting part about this elahorate preparation is cooking the

TO M A k [ R I L L E T T E S

Reduce some of thc lOlmb brOlising liquid to a

cllIlre animal In different waysl braising lhe neck. forequarter•. and

glaze (straining severOiI timcs). Shred the meOlI and add it to the glaze.

hrealh Prenching the rackl Sluffing the saddle, and boning out the

along with some butter. extra virgin olive oil. brunoise. salt. and pepper.

leg. marinating h whh nit. pepper. thyme. garlic. and mUlltard. tying

Roll the rillettes in plastic wrap to form a log Ph inches in diameter.

It up. and routing it. Theil. making 3 .tock from the liquid you've

RefrigerOlte.

braised the neck and hre:uiI in, making a quick sauce from that stock

When the log is chilled. cut into 1/2�inch rounds. Just before

with the honeH left over from the rack and the I4ddle and the leg. The

serving. cOOlt the rillene8 with panko (jnpanese bread crumbs) and 8aut�

d ifferent 3roll138 that emerge when you're doing all this are

i n c!:lrified butler.

phenolllenal.

FOR

TH[

BREAST

follow the cleaning. weighting. and cooking

Anti then the smAil miraclel to put the IInlmal back together.

instructions (or vcal breasl (see page 192). brushing them whh Dijon

prellemlng the pans of the entire lamb on a single pili Ie. 111is. to me. Is

mustard 3nd coating them with breOld crumbs mixed ..... ith minced

whal cooking ISlIlI llhoul.

parsley and garlic before cooking.

We uae th,. Callahan (amily'8 nell�'ether Farm hOlhy !:Imh, but OIny (rl'8h hllhy Inlllb

etu)

he Ulu:d. lIere la how II is prepared nt the French

lAundry.

f O R TH E S A U C E

Make a "quick" sauce (see page 228) .....ith the lamb

bones and remaining braising liquid. TO C O O k

Preheat the o\'en to 350°F.

Saut� the legs in canola oil to bro..... n; add butter. garlic. and Butcher I drc'lIIIcd hOlhy 111mb (22 to 25 pouml.) to yield I I neck. 2 pieces

thyme to the pan and place in the oven for 30 to 35 minutes. Cook the

uf hr�1I1i1 (trimming the: rlh honctl 2 1nchetl (rom the eye), 2 IIhoulders. I

saddle and rack i n the saUle .....ny nnd plnce in the oven for about 1 0

IIlIddl" (lIplh nnd lit-honed), I rack (liplll). 2 1cg8. :11111 4 8hanla. 501\'e the

minutes. Cook the meat until It is medium. There

honcli for Ihe 8nucc nnd the trimnllnga (or afar u (stumn ,).

lamb. so II

Mllke n Jarcr with thelamhtrlll1ulIugs. Removc thc

r O R T lt t S A D D l l:

Sprc'lIcl lheji,rct'

TO C O M P L E T E

the irll1lde (Ihe hone side) of the IIIr1oln. plOlcc the

no fat i n a baby

It Will he lOugh. Saute the kldne), at the lasl minute (it should be cooked until JII81 p,nk).

011

lS

cooked longer than nn older lamb, i( it IS undercooked.

IIlIvcn.kln (rolll the loin nnd lendrrioln and lieaKon the pieces of meat.

Shce all the meats. Place Ol nngof thyme�infuscd oil in

trndrrlolll o\'cr it, nnd wrap the plccell three lime8 in caul fat. Tie the

the cenler of cach pIOlIC. FIll the nngwith sauce. Place n hOlst of the lamb

plecca 10 mninlnln Ihelr IihaJle .

hreast on the sauce. Top the hreast wllh a hrOliscd clpolhm onion and

FOR

l U I:

H A C t(

Frc-nch the !JonI'8. tic the nlckll to m:lInt:un their

""/Ipt. nnd lIenlion whh linlc :wcl Jlt·ppcr. F O R TIU l U i S

Dfl/one nnt! hUllerny the leg" and mh with a mb:lUre

of minced garlic. extra vlrgin olive nil. OIJoII mUlLlard. chopped thyme, nud grny tlnlt. nrform Ihe legs ; Hul tlc them.

1911

lS

Th. f,.",h laund,y

C o o lo. b o o lo.

Provenc;al \'cgclablcs. Arrange the other cuts of Inmb around Ihe \·c:gctahlc8. ending wilh a plcce of the kidncy. C.1rlllsh wilh thymc IC3\'C8.

" ' t U Iti O ON

,. ... COl

200

"" "' ( ( 5

14

to

2 0 U I Y l ti Ci 5

L

BRAISED

Six 3-ounce W1\lson d\OP1 (� Sources, page

SHALLOTS

6 sprigs thyme

Kosher soh ond freshty ground block pepper

2 loblC1poons olive oU

Cooolo oil

2 teaspoons Brunolse (poge 1 55)

BUTTERNUT

1 loblC1poorl lomato dlomancb (see poge 203)

1 bunernu! $,Quash (with a n«k at leo"

V.. cup Beurre Monte (page 135)

I

Kol�' IoOh and helhty ground block pepper

31 5), cui 1 V.. InchH thkk, bones frend'otd

2 large (2 ounces �ch) shollots, un�led

3 cups Chklo.rn Stock (pogo 226) or waler Canola 011

1I. wp "Quick" Venl"'" Souco 11>090 228)

SQUASH

6 lmoll pitcH crhp coolo.rd bocon 6 lprSgl Chef I

4 Inchc1 long)

like venison because l1 "s low In rat and high In protem. You ('all rmd

Scason to IUle with uh

high· quality velllson year· round. but 118 3S80CIation Wllh " litter

(lightly dOlh the ,,:ttu) to ;I. bOil ;l.nd bl.:tnch the 8tlUlHlh rounds until

hngers. so we se�'e II With autumn or "lIller vegelables 3nd rnUlI1

:lInl

pt'pper. Dring Ihe chtckt'n 810rk or Wilier

lendn. Dr;l.tn the alice8

qUll1ces. squashes. beel8, Don't cook It past medltlTll r.Ut. bec3use lhe

TO C O M P l E T (

euon the\enulon chop8 1 IeJI ' . l nch or r;lnoll1 oit i n

lean mcat draes out (llUckly.

a large he3\')' IJn\ll�

tHm. When the Oll iS hot. ;I,iII the chopfilllntl rook on

the first ,Ide for 2 t0 3 nUllutu 10 bro\, n, l11C" Jl3n .shoultl ht" hOI enough FOR THE

S H ALLOTS

Preheat Ihe oven to 350°F.

lh3t "hen )OU .hake the pan din 3hoUI 1 0 1(,(,0IUI8. Ihe chopfil 1110\'('

PloIce: the shall0l8 and thyme sprags on a square or alunllnUll1 rOll.

fred '. Don't mO\'e IIi(' chOll1 unlll tht') mo\(' on tht'lr 0\\ 11 Turn Ihe

driulc wllh the ohve 011, and enclose 111 the rOIl. Bake ror 30 nunutes. or

choJls and bra"" the .seconti 8lllc for 2 10 3 1II111111r8 for 1 I I(,lliulIl r;\re.

until the shallots arc 80rl, Pccl thc shallots. cut orr the root elld. and cut

b3stlng Ihe chops sc\'tral illnu "lIh Ihe all III I lit" p:m.

illto sm311 wedgcs. Place the 8ha1l018 1 11 ;1 slIlall saucepall. FOR THE

V E N I SO N

Loop a PICCCOr kIlChell l\\II\t' 3round the hone or

Meall" hlle. 1I13 �ecolld luge 8.3ttllo p:m. h('al l/I , nch of cunoln 011. Alill the butternut 'quash.

6Cort'tI fude do" n, a1ll1 8JUI� tllIIlI KlIghtly hro\'o lI('tI

:I \'CllIson chop Just abO\e the me�lt. "rJ I) both ends of the t" Ille around

on Ihe bottom. Tilm and conllnue cookHlK unlil the il41U3"h III ht'Jlr41

the mcat . brang them hack to the bone, 3nd tiC the t" Illcaround Ihe bone

through

to glvc n uniform shnpe to the chop. CUI off the txce66 I" Ille 3nd rept"3t wllh thc rcm3lnlngcJlops.

tihallolll anti heat througll \\'nrrn Illc \enlliOn 8nuer.

Alld the bnJIIOlse. tOlllalO tlialllolulK, ,mIl hrurr(' IIIUIIII' 10 Ihe'

CUl orrdle ncck of lhe liqu38h ;'lIHlpeclll (rc:tie�'e

PI:&C( " �poonful of\t'llIlion UUCt' on (,3ch plntt' autl lop ,,"h a rOUlul

the rem.lln1ng squash for another use). Cut SIX II: IIIch dllck rounds

or 6qu.3sh autl a \'('11I80n chup Dl\lde Ih(' tlhallot8 nlllong: Ih(' cito!,". "cI a

fOR

T U E S Q U A S ll

from the neck of the squJsh. Wllh ;l 2

to 2 11J Illch culler, cut 3 round

IHt'C(' of hacon on e3ch bOrlr. anti �unll811 Neh ,, "h n "priK or ch('I"\'I I ,

rrom each slice, Score one Side of e3ch round III ;I. dl311lond p3ltern,

Meot

t99

f'o,' .. I)OUI IlIrc'"

InOlllil", In 1 1 1 0 ",prillK l i n d ,'uri), "'UIJlnH.'r, W(O Kcot t h r"c or rOtH'

I) ..h), III.uh", II w('ck, TWU,U)"IWO 10 IWC'tlt)"th't!' Imu.H'". IIm'C'r tt!d nn)'th l n K other

thnn 'Hc)tll",'·'" .nllk. JJcCIiUNC' Iht'Y'I'," NO "1)(.'01111. W(,,\"(o CUIHPOHCd It tduJ,(lu courHt' IhHI tenlllrO" ,"'III'I()II,", pUrl" or tlw IInhnul on II ",'uuh.· pllllC,

200

Tho F , o n c h L o u n d , y Cookbook

M O I) l

201

BATONS

O BLIQUE

CUTS

PA R I S I E H N E B A L L S

T O M AT O

Ve g e t a b l e

DIAMONDS

cuts

JULIENNE

BRUNOISE MINCE/DICE

F L U T E D O VA L

DICE

TURNED

LARGE MIREPOIX

SMALL MIREPOIX

OBLIQUE CUT

I RU N O IS E

This cut i s used o n elongated \'eget3bles such

Sm:lll dice of :lpprOllll1:lteiy I/lIt II1ch.

3S carrots and P3fSnlps, Startlng:tt the

narrow end of each \'egetable. cut a diagonal piece about

Ifs inch long. .....ith the kmfe bbde

MINC( DICE

To manu Uiling Q, manJol l llc o r sharp

pointing away from YOll at a ·15- degrce angle.

k m fe. CUI the Hgel4ble8 ,nto tilin slace•.

Roll the vcgetable a qunner turn and cut

Chop fond)'.

another piece at the same angle. Repeat the

To dlC't on onion or .hollol Pt'd :U1d cUl lhe

process until thc vegelable ..... Idens. Slice In

\'egel:lble 11l half throu ·h the root end Pl:ace

half lenf:,rth..... ise and cOlltlllue to turn and cut.

cUl lude dowll on a cutting hoard. Slice

I f the pieces become too brgc, cut

\·crtlc.1.l1

lengthwise again to keep pleccs equal 111 size.

from wuhin I

il\ II. IIlch ,lIce8. eUltlllg fOl'\\'3rd IIlCI! oflhe root end. lt':lvllig

the olllon or shallol Iniaci I\ept'al "'llh 8ATONS

hOrIt0U1:l1 slict's. CUI \'crtlcoll ,lIcu acr0811

Using a mandohnc o r sharp knife. cut

the ol1lon or shallot to form the tltee.

'A ,. I N T U I H , A n o y ( ,

thickness. Tnm 10 de81fC�:d letlb'1h. Cut

DIC[

poulhlc frolll ihe fnait or \'cgl'lllhlr,

crosswisc to form batons of 311 even

Slace b3ton8 1rlto the deSired lluckllCl8.

thickness and Width.

IC3\,ll1g the II1t'cc8 3& long 38 p05slblc. Cut

IlIlIg a lII:lmloitllc, cuI "lacC'ta lUI Ihinly 11M

vcgetables into sheels of thr: deslrcd

across Into 8'1U3fC8 10 focm Ihe dice. (TIlc PARISIENNE BALLS

dice 8ho", II here IS lit lI1eh.)

Scoop \'ery s1l1all balls uSing (I - 1 2 melon bailer

HUTlO OVAL

SCOOI) lIslng:1 OUlcd . oblong vt'gclalJlc 8COOI), T OMATO D I A M O N D S

Peel 3nti quarter a tomato. Place dan Side

TURNED

down, Clil a .....aY the IIl1enor. and trl llI lhe ribs

Cut the vegelableli 11110 plcrelJ slightly l:irgcr

to crealc an even sheet. Turn PU:CC8 o\'cr and

than the tiCblrt'd 1111.(' of the Iiill3pcd \ cge1:lhl('.

cui IIlto 1/' � l nch stnps. CUI SlrlpS on the

SIng .. paring 1.. 1 11 fe, CUI from lOp to holtom

dlO1gon:l1 11l1O (iI:1I110IllJ shapes.

10 "", Iuulc" a foot},a11 8hape

JULIENNE

M I A E PO I X n A NG E A N D S M A L L '

Trim Ihl' \'egeI3blc 1 1110 tht' dC81red lellh'1h

ut tht' \ t'/o)cl:.hlca lntfl IH(,,(,CIi of tll(" UIliC

USlJ1g a lIIandolllll'. slice: the vcgctahle Into

apprO�lInal(' 811(' Tile longcr the \'t'Hct311Icti

tilln slu:l't8 Ovcrlap the shech, to form a hlle

"'111 11(" coukell, the Iargcr Ihc JlIt'Ct'1i of

of Ihe \l'gclabll'

IIIlrcpOlx l..argt' IIlIre1'011 11i prlmanl)

form 3 J ulienne.

hlld) blaCC the Sh("t'11i to

ul\(,,11

111 block" anJ '1111311 JlllreI'O)); In tllt' J113kJI1K of b3ucr8

204

T h o r t o n ' h L a u n d , � Cook book

The

I m portance

of Rabbits

From 1 980 to 1 983, I worked i n the kitchen of a small restaurant near Catskill ,

e w York, o n a patch of the

Hudson River Valley so remote it didn't have an address. The sb: ty - scat restaurant was owne d by Rene .lnd Paulette Macary (she rem3ins its proprietor today). 1..:1 Hh'c.

1 clutched

named Ihu8 hecause i1 sat on a wide running creek. ,",'38 3 fruitful

Illbbil8 IcrC3111 :uHi tl1l8 OIlC Kcre:ullcd loudly. 'l1l�n It broke 11K Irg

training ground. and New York StOlle had extraordinary lh'cSlock.

trying 10 Kel a,,'ay. It WIK lernhle.

Bcautiful vc31 came down from Utica. I found 3 m:m ""ho r:lIsed

:It the fl�t �bhlt, I luul :1 hllrU lt me killing It. It 8crC'ttmrtl .

The next ten n.hhHII du.l n't scream :md 1 .....:l!I 'IUick ..... lIh tilc kill.

1m!

Spccl3cuIJr pigeons. I bCI,r:m 1 0 ask these farmers for unU8U31 11erna to

thou flf"il Kcrcanllng rahllli nOI only

experiment with. things lake pigs' ears, cockscomhs. duck testicles.

3180 13Ughl inC 3hout �31iIr. Ikc3UKC killi ng Iholl" r3hhUli IltHI IIcrll ",ueh

One day. J asked my r3hbll pun'eyor 10 show me ho..... 10 "all. da n.

g;:WI! IIlr a le'UOII

IU hUlchering. II

an 3wfut expcnellcc. I ..... uulll not KCl ul uHlcr them. I .... oulll \Uu� nil 111

and cvisccr:n c a rabl)lt. I had never done this. and I f1b"Urcd I f I "'38

po....'e(8 ;11'1 3 chl'( to efHiurc Ihill I hoKe rabill t" w("rc hClttlltful. 1 1 ' " very

going to cook fahbit . I should know It from its Ih'c state through the

C3SY 10 go to :1 groce ry ,;tort' alltl huy lI1e31, tlltn nccHlrl\tally I)\'ercouk it

slaughteri ng. skinning. and butchenng. and then the cookl llg, 'Ill(: bruy

and throw II 3way A cook lI:1l1l�lIlg a. r.,hblt 10111. �'orkIHK IIH' IIlIr un II

sho..... ed up with twch'C! hve rabbits. lie hll one over the head wlth :l club,

S3IUnhty flight . Q lIulllon p3tHi gOlng. piatr" WH nl{ uut lhr 111)0r. ...., IIU Illuk

knocked il out. Shl 1l8 lhroat. pinned It t o :1 board. skinned It the �hQI�

tll31 101113 lillie.- tot) r.n. tlOedu'l hrlj;lt�le. JUlil tlUlTlps lt I n lilt' gllrhUKt' AIIiI

bit, Then he lefl.

(m'li 3nother. Woult! li I al c:uuk,

1 don't know what else 1 expected. hut there I W:18 oul

In the gralSli

hehlnd the restaurant , just me and cleven cute hunnles. all of wilich �'crr

on the menu that .....eek and had to fuui thelr way 11110 n hrauil llg pan.

I

wfllule r. tu",,:, Irt III N IUlI'nlilln IlI flly

(rom 1 1 1:&1 10111 1I;ul he klllf'd Ihr r;ahlill h l lllself? Nu, Shnll"l " conk 6Clu:ludt'r Zlnythi llg, ('\',' r1

I t was Q tillTlplt' IrIiIiOIl.

','- n l

105

206

T h e f, e n eh L o u n d , y Coolbool

Sncldh ... or H n h h l t .

In

A p p lt'wUlUI"

lnnlu-d UncOil w i t h

Cn l'nll\(-U'l.t'"

Pc'nut'1 u n c i 1''''- 1 \ 11(''

011

CARAM E L I Z E D F E N N EL

RABBIT

v, cup "Qukl" Rabbi' Sauce (pogo 228)

3 fennel bulbs (about 7 OUflCC1 coch)

3 ·super" rabbit 5oOddle\ (� SouIte1. pogc 3 1 5)

Fcnncl 0'" (pooo

2 �prigs thyme

18 thin �w bocon. Pfl!feroWy applowood.

6 lprigl iermcl

2 pfeces �tor onls.01\11110: �r\lfc' ,ifill n'lIlU\t' lllI' IClln� ancl lt'ndnlolllti, TnIII III(' nJ I II; cnall�lf) .IIUrlu',1 1t1 thl' It.lddlc· lu I Irlch S" 38on IIII' ")11110 ;illll lt'llCll'rlOllIs '" lilt h,tll rUlil llC'P I','r ,111,1 (C'pl.1t I"

lilt' h'llIll'rlulnJi nl) C.IC'l1 IOIll I-nld llw n.1J11O .JrUUIUI IIIl' IIll',lt W furlll

111111111" of ,·lIul IIlK.

Ml',ln",llIlc', IIr:\l I . III1.' h uf (';111111.1 ctll I n " Iir('OlUl lar�I' K\ollrl , Adel thr fe'lIn('1

nll'rnlJraneR. S('t aSICI,'.

.... ,tit'

!rUi!

aelll III" L.ul lll'l'" ,,1111 K;,UI" hrll·n

,I

r.wL. 11111) 1�II IHt'('I''' ' CUI ra('h lltllll'y IIl lmlf

StIUrrlf.: i-I nnguf "'nnrl U1l cHlIU ('MiI plnlt' ,11111 "' IHllIlI llll' 'HIIIl'l' I IIIU

Ihr' 1'lIh'r au (lil liit' nllgli. L" I"" r a bllc'c' uf f" IIIH'1 "" tilt, "'JUl'" Ar(lUl�I' " JII" ('I' flf h,lIlcll" , r,n � • .11111 kill III')' lm lU I" .11111 K,l rrtl"h ('al'lt l 'unHIlI of rahhlt '" IIh . fl'l1I,,'1 ri)lnK

l'UlIl l'a('1 (') h lll!c'r /\rfllllJ.l:l· (, ;;liu·ti uf baLUIi fill ,I "" Irk burf,l I"',

M e ll i

:107

/

20a

T h o r , Cl n c h l (l u n d t � Coo�lIoo�

The

I mportance

of Offal

Roland Henin taught me how to cook tripe. This was another critical step for me. At L, Rive. I had become interested in offal. the innards that were in abundance in the nlral Hudson

alley in the early 1 9808-

brains. kid neys. 11\'t'f. tcstlcles. 810m:lch. lUll!,"" TIle O"' llerti of I., Hi"t". who wcre French. loved arral because In fr:mcc It 18 cookC'd bC�IlIHrull)'.

btlullt'C1 for IIUlklll� ll lllllnn�('. ou' l't" 1t't'S II lr:elY l u In�('('h,'lll,(," "IUI IO Irarll,

but it W38 rarely used In Amencan rcslaur.mh\ at the l illie.

Onct' OU\t' tlclt' rllllllt'li not 1 0

Not long "fter I arrh'cd at 1..0. Hive. lIenm hq;:m I(:ach lng ;11 the

""111(' orral. ou II1\1!U It'lar,,). IlrIllQUlIlIIJ.:t' Ifl IIU' J:rcnch term (or the

icc water, pl aclIlg Iht container in Ihe SlI1k, and stirring the liquid

r(, lIIoI H lrning. " or H" cond (·xlr.1cl ion (rom the honcK. " " 4. M arriage o(Vcnl · 1 nnd VCil' -2 ilud (unhtr reducllolI lO concentl.ltc

occalllonaUy unul there iUC no traces o( steam and the 1i

ami tll J o\\' thc I(IO('k

10 lIIillUlr81 thi"

:1.110\\'11 all' plr1lclt"!l Ic,(t In Ihe Iilork to 5('1 I 1t' !ll lhC' 1I01lOm oCtllr pUI. Set

STOCK

:t c1111101S (tiee

1 0 pounds veal bones, nedu, and

III1J1Urlllctt. 11lr 1I100'k .... '11 htlV(' A

1I01l(,(,3hl(' ciani '.

iWl'r " ('onlilll\er IArgr'

5r " 1:\llIr 10 rCIIIOH' Ih(' IUt)rk frol1l th('

IlOl allll .,lr;"n II 11110 Ih(' COIIUulI('r (II 1 5 illlJlnrtanl 10 ltHlir Ih(' "lUck

I calf's foot, split (optional)

Ih ounce Itolion parsley sPfi9s

rJlhrr I hall pouring It. 3fi tlte forr r of ! 'o un nl-: It (Jul "II AI tlncr \\'ollltl

10 quarts cold water

2 boy I."..,

for('(' II11 1Hlrlllrli IhrouK" 111[' ,.1 r'JlIlrr. ) Illllrtmi :m' "toel lo",anl thr

AROMATICS

5 .prig. ,hyme

hOllom oflhe pot Ihat III ('lnUlI "lilt 1I1 lllUnllrtl Fill II lillik "111i I('r "':lI('r arul plaet' I he COllllliller III li to ('0411 do\\'n

4 cups ( I pound) leek! cut InlO

f3J1 l1l1y StIr orca!ilOllaJly 1111111 thrrr arr 110 Wlt'l'" o( Klcll lilo

1 ·lnch mlrepolx (sec pago 203)

Ih(' lilork

(while and some 1I0hl green

ncfngt'f:ue thr 1I10('k for I 10 2 da) li, or (rrt'lr III "('\'eral conlnlnefll fnr

ports only)

10111o:('r IIl0r..ge .. " U \ 3 O V . I ' S

Hluse the vcal hone8 In cold .....alt:r and place Ihe bOllu :md us mg. In a 1 6 (Iuan

hlockpol . Add e nough cold

calr., foot.

If

\\tlh:r 10 COIllC Ihrce

'1uancrs of till' \\31 up the Sides of Ihe: pOll there fihuultl bc JI ICJIH 1\\ ICC a8 much waler a8 there are bOIlC6. Slo.....ly lmng Iht' \\;lI{"r 10 a 6U1Ul1rrl dUN

mily lake 1 10 I III hourg, As Ihe hqUl d ls hr. lng hrought lo a Sl Irl ll lr r. move the bones around from tune to l i llie, hUI do nOI fillr, "')lIch ",ould cn'ale too much movemcnt anti dls)lt'rse the unpunuc8 SkUll offlhe IiCUII1 1hal

LAMB

hrowning. Once Ihe bone8 :Ire 3 rich deep brown color. removc them

STOCK

from Ihe roasting pan and pbce them in one large stoc)..-pot or two 1 0 pouncfl lomb bonet. CuI Inlo

l it, cup' (8 ounces) onlon, cut Inlo 1 .I",h ml..poI. (sea pog. 203)

lmall ph:cc,

I head gartic. halved, broken InlO

It, cup canota 011 , ",II', fOOl, 'pili (optional)

plCCct$, rool

1 0 quo'" cold wOIor

removed

end and CKCOS' ,IOn

smaller ones. TO D E G L A Z E T H e R O A S T I N G P A N

Add just enough water to harcly

cover Iht: boltom of the roasting pall. Pillce the pan over medium he3t and usc a wooden spatula to scr.,pc up the glalc and bits of mcat on Ihe bottom oflhc p3n. Add this lo the slockl'ol.

A R O M AT I C S

l it, ounces 1I0lian panley 'pOgs

FOR THE

2't, cup' ( 1 2 ouncOl) COl101, cut

'11 oonco

waler to the pot. Bring Ihe li(lliid slowly 10 a simmcr. skimming off any

Inlo I ·/nch mlr"polx

Ihymo 'pOos

E XT R A C T I O N

Add the c.1lfs foot. if using. and the cold

2 boy leo,,,. ( I pound)

scum 018 soon a8 ),ou Bce it. (It is casier 10 skim hefore Ihe vegelahles arc

Scant 2 cups tomato paste

and tomatocs and 8immer the stock for 5 hours.

I pound tomatoes. cut Inlo 1.lnch

L A D L E T H E S T O C K I , n o A C O N TA I N E R

(00. poge 203)

added.) Once the liquid is:!t a simmer. add the aromatics. tomato p:lste.

4 cup, ( 1 pound) leeks CUi Inlo I .'"," ml,.poI. (wo pooo 203) (white and lOme light oreen

First ladle from the lOp.

rathcrthall dlpplllgclecp, lhcn tilt thc pOl iO continuc ladlinglhc IICJuid:

pieces (2'1, cUp')

PO"' ""Iy)

remove and disC3rd the honcs as you go. 00 not he tempted to pour thc stock through a cobllder; I t ,",ould make the siock cloudy. Then strain

T O M O A � T nil B O t H S

Prclu::U lheoyc:nt0 100°F.

Plncl' the IAmh ImneK in a ro:lIJ1ing pan Ih ..t Is lllrgc enough

the stock through ;& ChlllOIS (scc page 73) or fmc- mesh str"incr. 00 not 10

hold

Ihell1 III ulle layer. ( I f Ihc·y Art' erowtled. Ihey will stcam and flot brown c·yenly. WIC 1"'0 paliK If IIt'Cf·fUJI.,y.) Th(' oplional C:llrR fool Is not ro:uuccJ. fill

Ihnl \'/ould tleerc'allt' Ihe CllrLH:llofi of KeI.. II".

Coni Ihe hone" whit the oil; liKing oil KI ' 'c·dll Ihe roalil i ng process. Homll (or nhullt l ila hours. Ktlrrlng occ., slollally 10 ClUlurc even

224

The F , e n c h L o u n d , y Coo"boo"

force through any JII '31 or liquid rClll3111ing In the strainer. YOII "llould have 3 to 1 'Juans of J:lrnb siock. If necessary, rcturn the 8trnincd Block

10

the heal and reduce to 3 (l ua rtR. Hcfrigerale for I to 2

days, or freele in several containers for longer storage. M A " l S 3 O U A lt t S

DUCK STOCK

Ihe honCil litt'.1ming ratlu:or than roullng. Ollre tltt" honr. Art' :t neh cl('("1'

red bro"" (not hlack). r('II1O\t' Illtlll rrolll ilic m""!lngpan 3ntl l'll\c(' III

5 pounds duck bones, cut Into

3 1 2 111.111 1 '11" of grn'lUi Oil t·.le h roulld \\ c·clgt, of dwrb(' ,lIul llprtll}"I,' tht' pl.llr;., \\ HII ht'l'l l'm,tJl'r

fI'p":'1 \\Itll tt... rrlll.ltnlllK 1 '1.11r'I'> C

Mf

I

'l u"" tllf' lul:t rrll'l�.I \\ lIh l h.. rllI\,· • . ;a IIllIt· IIII\r' Hll . lIl1d

1i.&11 Ifl I.&"tc' l\rr.I lI/o:'· 1I1I1l1I "11U11I 1 "1'1" flf 1,·IIIUI"' If'.1\ ,.,. llllll til,lIlIl IIII'm 111 1111' 111111"1'1 111 Ilu" " fllrr Ilf tIll" plulII" �t'&IIII .1 .... " dW· u( , 111" ',,1' ul llII' IIlIlt· uf r.1I h hllU4 1 111'1 Stl'lI'flf' '& MII.III ,11111111111 uf ( 11I\r fill urtlulIIl 1111" (',IKt"1I fI( Ih,' pIUIJlI'I, I" I1I1I� II tlnllh' , 1 ...... 11 UIIIII II.,. "Ialf' �I('

�t

0 11

' ''' 10 1

1" I

..

'.

... -

..

...

1 1 1 - " , ... w l , l l Utlill "'WI·"W-I'IUI'

..

" 1)I." ,,','j l'U l l l h l ' " I I I t I l I . I e l l l lll
. tiny IHlhhlt'8 will form :Jround Ihe 1.It'CIS, InlilC'allllg mOIt'llure III liIe clurs, As soon as Ihe mOiSlu re h:Js evaporated (al " Ilirli '01111, 111(' r1I1J1S 1 will be CflSp), thc cluJis \\ dl lilnk 10 Ihl' bOllom of the 1'01, HC'1II0\C Iht'lII a s t hcy do, tir:Jln on J>tlJlcr to\\c!s, anti spnnllc \\1111 I;alt Ket'l) tht' clull" al roOll1 lemperalUrc unlll serving, F O R T t! [ IJ l [

CH

Spoon some or Ihe halnUI S)rup 01110 l'ach S('f'\Ulg plale, Unrnold Ihl' cJkes :md Cclller olle. uJl&ldr do"" II. III c.'at It 1'0111 of TO

CaMP ET[

the syrup (dip Iht' molus III hal haler to loosen Iht, C'J�r8 If nt'r(, h�;II) , Arrange 2 c;uHiu'd \\.lII1UII; 011 OPPOSltl' Sides of c'3ch c.lle ami plaN' a scoop or ri liellcllc (sec.' page 27·1) of rcd bc.'et lcr err'am 1i('I\\ el.'lI Ih('1II

Stack

il lunall pile of heel chips o\'er the ICC cn'alll and bllflllllt' lht· clIII'S

wllh pQ\\dcred sligar

"' '' ' I ) 1 0 H . ... ".(,)

304

Tho French tounclr� Cookbook

Beginning

and

ending

After )OU nrl\'C at the Fr('nch uumh)' . 1 1 , " . It' " II '.. ' liP"'"

\1I1 I" 'Ie'II, 10 0 \\1' 10" " \1' 1 ''''111 " It II

" u ") h' "'"'( "

,W" " " . , I ' t ' '''') , . , " ,• ."

.

""' I I ' .. 1'111)11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 . 1 1 1 1 '

.I'- ' It.u , •. 11" ' 1 " ._,

0."."

107

' P E A N U T

B U T T E R

A N D

J E L L I E S '

d Sweet Poppers cnd Eggplont Cavlor 4 1 Gruybro Cheese Gouobrcs 48

with GcwlirZ1romlncr Jelly I 1 1 "Tongue In Cheek": Braised Beef Cheeks and Veal Tongue with Baby Leeks and Horseradish Cream 1 1 2 Eric's Stoff Losagno 1 1 6 Stoff Dressing 1 1 7

"Chips: and Dip": Potato Chlln with Truffla orp 48

f I 5 If

Parmlglano·Ragalana Crl�ps wiTh Goot Choose Mousse 49

Bulter·Poached Moine Lobster with Leeks,

Shrimp wUh Avocado SoI$O 50

r lJ l S T

Pommes Moxlm, and a Red Beet Esscnce 125 "Peas and Corrots": Moine Lobster Pancakes with Pea Shoot Salad

COURS[

Salad of Potlle Summer Tomaloes with Vlne·Rlpe Tomato Sorbot 56 Vlno·Rlpq Tomato Sorbet with Tomato Tartore and BasU 011 57 Solod of Globe Mlchokes wllh Gorden Herbs and G01pocho 62 Salad of Haricots Vcrts, Tomoto Tortore, and Chive 011 64 Heirloom Tomoto Tort wllh Nlr;olso Olivo Topcnode, Mhted Field Greens, and Basil Vlnolgrelle 66 Salmi of Dlock Minion Flos with Roo�tcd Sweet Peppers and Shovc:d Fennel 67 Heorls of Polm with Pordo of Morrow Beans and Field Grecns 70 Favo Bcon "onololll wllh Curry Emulsion 80 Sweet Palata "onololll whh Saoo Cream, Drown Duller, and Prosclullo 8 1 Chostnut I\ollololll with Fontlno and Colery Root Purco 82 Whllo Com 1\onololll with Summer Truffles 83

316

Worm Fruitwood·Smokcd Solmon wITh Pototo Gnocchl

Dungeness Crab Solad with Cucumber Jelly,

Cauliflower Panna Colla with Oolugo Covlor 22

"Ungulno" wlln 'Ilhlla Clom Souat

Tasting o f Potatoes with Block Truffles 86 Cotnoroll Rlsono with Shoved White Truffles from Alba 88

L I , . 01 R o c l p o ,

and Glnger·Carrot Emulsion

126

"Maco/onl and Oleesc": BUller-Poocht!d Moine Lobster with Croomy Lobster Broth and Moscorpone·Enriched Orlo 1 32 Five-Spiced Roosted Moine Lobster with Porl·Pooched Rgs and Saut�cd Moulord Duck Fole Gras 1 3 3 Pan·Roosted Moine Jumbo Scallops with Morel Mushrooms and Aspor09us Pu,� 136 Solman "Chops" with Celery and Block Truffles 1 3 7 Cltrus·Marlnated Salmon with a Conli! o f Novel Oranges, Deluga Caviar, and Pea Shool CouUs 140 "Clam Chowder"� Saut&!d Cod with Cod Cokes and Parsley Oil 142 Sauteed Atlantic Halibut with Summer Succotash and Rue-Scented Onion Giole 1 4 4 Block

Sea Doss with Sweet ParsnIps,

and Soffron.Vonlllo Sauce 146

Auowleof Spinach,

Pon·Roeslcd Slrlpcd

Bou wf1h Mkhok.e RoonoIi

Con.u Vccchlu .... ,!h Spked CoffOI Solod and Gokkn RoI\ln P\.Ir� 2042

and BariOOOlc VinolgrIoI, �'J'J�onl. It. '99Plonl co.lo,

co.lol. OltllO, loharon of peoli loploco ..111'1 Molptqu. o" ter' 01\.,,